Before taking up scuba diving as a recreational sport, it is important that you get yourself the necessary scuba equipment and gear. There are many options available but if you’re a beginner, it’s best to start from the basics such as the mask, fins, snorkel, and weight belt, then move on to advanced sets later.
The Basics:
The diving mask allows you to see underwater through the glass plate in front. Most diving masks are constructed in such a way that a user can breathe out into the mask. This prevents the “squeeze” during the descent caused by pressure. Choose a mask that properly fits your face and forms a seal. Most scuba diving masks come with a rubber or silicone "skirt" that creates a watertight seal with the diver's face.
There are several types of diving masks such as full face diving masks that allow underwater verbal communication, diving helmets using surface supplied diving equipment etc. Prescription masks are also available for people who wear prescription glasses.
The Fins allow you to move freely underwater and should perfectly fit the feet. It should neither be too tight nor too loose which can hamper swimming capabilities, be very uncomfortable and even dangerous while taking a dive. The snorkel lets you breathe at the surface without raising your head from the water, and should be no lesser than 30 cms in length. The weight belt helps you maintain buoyancy so you should consider getting one if you’re a beginner.
Diving suits like Wetsuits and Drysuits provide thermal insulation and prevent complications such as hypothermia. Remember that water conducts heat 25 times faster than air from the body. So, choose a suit depending on how warm or cold your diving water is going to be.
Scuba Sets:
There are two main types of scuba sets – open-circuit and closed-circuit.
Most scuba divers use standard air - 21% Oxygen, 79% Nitrogen – for their open-circuit scuba sets, which is much more cost-effective than using mixtures such as heliox and trimix. The open-circuit scuba set (also known as Aqualung) itself is quite simple so is also cheaper and more popular than other types. Basically, the user breathes in from the set and out to waste, with the gas cylinder worn on the back. There are 2- and 3 backpack cylinders open-circuit scuba sets available.
Closed-circuit scuba sets use rebreathers. In this system, exhaled air is reprocessed by the rebreather to make it fit for re-inhalation. This can be very economical for people who need to take long dives. The three types of rebreathers include oxygen, semi-closed circuit and fully-closed circuit rebreathers.
Accessories you should consider:
Regulator and Buoyancy Compensator (BC) – The regulator, which carries the air from your cylinder, should be equipped with a gauge and second mouthpiece. The Buoyancy Compensator, such as such as a back-mounted wing or stabilizer jacket, is crucial for neutral buoyancy to control depth.
Dive watch: Electronics like a dive watch comes in quite handy when measuring your time and depth underwater. A dive computer is also available for the same purpose which is more accurate but more expensive.
If you plan to really move head with your scuba diving adventure, consider getting other useful accessories such as underwater light, a surface marker-buoy (SMB), a knife, and a compass etc. Experienced divers, Scuba Dive centers, websites, magazines, etc will all be able to assist you when searching for the right scuba diving equipment and accessories.
The Secret to Fruitful Turkey Hunting
You may have found out by now that hunting turkeys is harder than it appears if you're a beginning or intermediate hunter. A turkey in the wild is a hard bird to hunt and pursue, even with it's name. They may have a humorous name, but the turkey has an unexpected intelligence and sharp vision. It is extraordinarily hard to get close to and sneak up on a turkey and can take many years for a hunter to cultivate the skills it takes to perform this difficult task. However, with a superior form of cover, you can significantly raise your odds in turkey hunting and have the upper hand. This decreases the visibility for the turkeys and allows the hunter to get in close enough to make the shot.
For the hunter out on the field, the most effective kind of camouflage out there is the ghillie suit, which was developed over 150 years ago in the forests of Scotland. It's a suit that you can place over your regular clothes to drastically alter your form and dramatically lower your visibility to animals out in the wild. Strands of material like jute or burlap hang down all over the suit, making it hard for game to locate you. This blends the pattern and frame of the human wearer and makes them meld in to their environment. Ghillie camo is so efficient that it is possible for animals to come right up to a wearer that is being perfectly quiet.
A turkey's fine sense of sight is confused when human patterns are broken up with the assistance of a ghillie suit. In order for a person to successfully hunt a turkey, they must get in a range to have a kill shot to impede an injured turkey from scurrying off in the forests. By moving patiently and keeping low to the ground, a hunter can close the distance between them and a rafter of turkeys.
It is ideal to try and find turkeys at night as they are preparing to roost. It is really hard to stalk a turkey. In fact, there's a good chance it's already seen you if you spot a turkey on the field. It is challenging to sneak up behind them because they not only can see a great distance but also have a broad range to their vision. To keep predators from sneaking up on them, a group of turkeys will face each other in a circle to cover all angles of the field.
Staying in a single place and waiting in a heavily populated turkey area can be a somewhat slow process that requires a lot of time being really still. And then there's the possibility that before you get a chance to get a good shot the group of cautious turkeys will spot you as soon as you move and be on the retreat. It might take patience and ingenuity, but it is possible to get within range of a gang of turkeys. With a powerful gun, a ghillie suit, and an effective turkey call you can get those turkeys once and for all.
For the hunter out on the field, the most effective kind of camouflage out there is the ghillie suit, which was developed over 150 years ago in the forests of Scotland. It's a suit that you can place over your regular clothes to drastically alter your form and dramatically lower your visibility to animals out in the wild. Strands of material like jute or burlap hang down all over the suit, making it hard for game to locate you. This blends the pattern and frame of the human wearer and makes them meld in to their environment. Ghillie camo is so efficient that it is possible for animals to come right up to a wearer that is being perfectly quiet.
A turkey's fine sense of sight is confused when human patterns are broken up with the assistance of a ghillie suit. In order for a person to successfully hunt a turkey, they must get in a range to have a kill shot to impede an injured turkey from scurrying off in the forests. By moving patiently and keeping low to the ground, a hunter can close the distance between them and a rafter of turkeys.
It is ideal to try and find turkeys at night as they are preparing to roost. It is really hard to stalk a turkey. In fact, there's a good chance it's already seen you if you spot a turkey on the field. It is challenging to sneak up behind them because they not only can see a great distance but also have a broad range to their vision. To keep predators from sneaking up on them, a group of turkeys will face each other in a circle to cover all angles of the field.
Staying in a single place and waiting in a heavily populated turkey area can be a somewhat slow process that requires a lot of time being really still. And then there's the possibility that before you get a chance to get a good shot the group of cautious turkeys will spot you as soon as you move and be on the retreat. It might take patience and ingenuity, but it is possible to get within range of a gang of turkeys. With a powerful gun, a ghillie suit, and an effective turkey call you can get those turkeys once and for all.
Nitro Engines For Beginners
Nitro engines are usually the best pick for interested hobbyists but the problem and the real dilemma is always faced by the beginners. Sure, there are loads of benefits a nitro engine offers but maintaining it has to be a regular chore. Also, there’s absolutely no doubt that in order to keep up with proper tuning and extra care for its engine to last longer, it will have to take more than your precious time and attention – your budget has to keep up too.
Before you ever try to go for a nitro engine for your RC car, you have to consider immensely how experienced and knowledgeable you really are with both its regular and monetary needs. This isn’t a way of discouraging you from getting a nitro engine for your car though; just a simple word of advice.
Nitro engines can be bought already assembled without anything else you need to do except for testing it on the road. This is an absolute must-have for beginners who literally are in doubt in building nitro engine from assembled parts since you will have to forgo the trouble of choosing the separate parts for your engine alone.
Of course, the big and obvious disadvantage here is that already made nitro engines could cost a lot compared to the ones you could possibly assemble. But on the brighter side of things, ready to run kits doesn’t deprive you of adding, maintaining and even repairing it yourself if it happens to require any of the action words mentioned. All three are possible; you just have to follow the instructions which come with the box.
But then again, if you’re a newbie with regards to the entire RC cars shindig, it isn’t the choice recommended for you…still, RC cars run by nitro engines are the most popular among RC car racers and if you want to feel the thrill as if you have a real nitro-powered car, this is the closes to having one.
Before you ever try to go for a nitro engine for your RC car, you have to consider immensely how experienced and knowledgeable you really are with both its regular and monetary needs. This isn’t a way of discouraging you from getting a nitro engine for your car though; just a simple word of advice.
Nitro engines can be bought already assembled without anything else you need to do except for testing it on the road. This is an absolute must-have for beginners who literally are in doubt in building nitro engine from assembled parts since you will have to forgo the trouble of choosing the separate parts for your engine alone.
Of course, the big and obvious disadvantage here is that already made nitro engines could cost a lot compared to the ones you could possibly assemble. But on the brighter side of things, ready to run kits doesn’t deprive you of adding, maintaining and even repairing it yourself if it happens to require any of the action words mentioned. All three are possible; you just have to follow the instructions which come with the box.
But then again, if you’re a newbie with regards to the entire RC cars shindig, it isn’t the choice recommended for you…still, RC cars run by nitro engines are the most popular among RC car racers and if you want to feel the thrill as if you have a real nitro-powered car, this is the closes to having one.
Keys Of Hung Gar Kung Fu Mastering
1. While polishing your technique you should never stick out your chest or stomach either when fighting or practicing. It stiffens your body and makes your movements awkward. As a result, you are losing control over your body. While practicing always make sure to keep your back bent outward and chest incurved. This is the right sign to distinguish between Kung Fu masters and Kung Fu athletes.
2. Despite the fact that the back should be a bit bent outward, you have to maintain the body centrality; by no means should the body be bent too much. Otherwise it will lose the balance, which can result in loss of equilibrium and steadiness, and make the outgoing energy weak. The back and pelvis must be in the same plane.
3. Bending your head down in fight is like blindfolding yourself, since with your head down you cannot fully control all the actions of your enemy. Moreover, it can lead you to losing the balance.
4. During the fight, your waist should be down. If it is not, it makes Qi to go upward and accumulate in the chest. This accumulation of Qi in the chest causes you to lose the steadiness; your movements will immediately become clumsy and awkward. A man with his Qi in lower Dan Tian can be compared to a weeble wobble, since it is virtually impossible to throw him down on the ground. Now, consider moving the load in the lower part of the weeble wobble upward; the slightest push would overturn the weeble wobble.
5. The hand is rounded in elbow and wrist.
6. Practicing, always make sure to perform movements correctly. Otherwise, you would get bad habits, which is rather harmful than advantageous. Mastering new techniques, you should always act without haste; only when you have repeated movements correctly many times, you can consider increasing speed and strength.
7. It is not good performing already learnt techniques with negligence, so-so, since it is hardly of any use. Performing already mastered techniques you need to fully use your consciousness, i.e., using consciousness (Yi) send your energy Qi to the section of the body engaged in this technique. For example, kicking with your heel the moment the heel touches the enemy (target) you need to fully focus on throwing the energy through the heel.
8. Inside yourself, you should work out your mind, spirit, consciousness and Qi until they join together. Only when this happens you will be able to send your Qi anywhere at your wish.
9. The key to mastering is in everyday work at the thing neither master not disciple can do without, namely polishing the basic technique.
2. Despite the fact that the back should be a bit bent outward, you have to maintain the body centrality; by no means should the body be bent too much. Otherwise it will lose the balance, which can result in loss of equilibrium and steadiness, and make the outgoing energy weak. The back and pelvis must be in the same plane.
3. Bending your head down in fight is like blindfolding yourself, since with your head down you cannot fully control all the actions of your enemy. Moreover, it can lead you to losing the balance.
4. During the fight, your waist should be down. If it is not, it makes Qi to go upward and accumulate in the chest. This accumulation of Qi in the chest causes you to lose the steadiness; your movements will immediately become clumsy and awkward. A man with his Qi in lower Dan Tian can be compared to a weeble wobble, since it is virtually impossible to throw him down on the ground. Now, consider moving the load in the lower part of the weeble wobble upward; the slightest push would overturn the weeble wobble.
5. The hand is rounded in elbow and wrist.
6. Practicing, always make sure to perform movements correctly. Otherwise, you would get bad habits, which is rather harmful than advantageous. Mastering new techniques, you should always act without haste; only when you have repeated movements correctly many times, you can consider increasing speed and strength.
7. It is not good performing already learnt techniques with negligence, so-so, since it is hardly of any use. Performing already mastered techniques you need to fully use your consciousness, i.e., using consciousness (Yi) send your energy Qi to the section of the body engaged in this technique. For example, kicking with your heel the moment the heel touches the enemy (target) you need to fully focus on throwing the energy through the heel.
8. Inside yourself, you should work out your mind, spirit, consciousness and Qi until they join together. Only when this happens you will be able to send your Qi anywhere at your wish.
9. The key to mastering is in everyday work at the thing neither master not disciple can do without, namely polishing the basic technique.
Skydiving Schools: Picking the School and Training That’s Right for You
Perhaps you’ve considered actually jumping from a perfectly good airplane, from time to time, in your past. Perhaps you are the unwitting recipient of a skydiving gift certificate from a friend. Whatever the case, despite the good advice to the contrary from sane people all around you, you’re actually going to go through with it…..
So now what? Finding a top-notch skydiving school can seem like a daunting task. Every skydiving school web site you visit seems great at first blush, but then you start to see a trend develop, namely, they seem to all claim to be the best, friendliest, safest, and highest-jumping drop zones in the world. Though your friends, still coming to grips with your decision, might argue that you clearly have no common sense, you know full well that you do. That same common sense is telling you that not all of these schools can actually be the best. So how does one actually choose? How do you read through the hype and come away with the best thrill of your life?
It’s a good question, and deserves a good answer because you only get a first jump once in life. Here then, is the answer to that question, a short guide to selecting the best skydiving school for you. The best way to begin is by actually defining what your desired end result of this experience is to be. Seems like a no-brainer; the end result is to simply jump out of an airplane and float to the ground, right? Wrong. There’s a lot about how you get from air to there that can influence your experience and ultimately your opinion of the sport.
The first step to making this decision is in understanding the types of jumps that are available to you. I will explain each, along with the pros and cons.
1) Tandem Jump:
A tandem jump is a method of jumping where you exit the plane not with a parachute strapped to your back but an entire instructor. This is the most popular choice for new divers and is highly promoted by drop zones. The reason for this is multi-faceted; there is no responsibility on the new skydiver’s part, they simply go with the flow and the instructor does all the work. This diminishes nearly all new-diver fault risks but also has a higher profit margin for the drop zone. Given the responsibility-free nature of a tandem jump for the new skydiver, the ground portion can be done in an hour or less, and requires only a one-to-one instructor/jumper ratio, where Accelerated Free Fall initial jumps require two instructors and far more ground school. If you are simply jumping to be able to buy the tee shirt from having done it once in your life, this method is for you. The relief of putting all the worry into the hands of a capable pro is terrific. If, however, you think you may want to take up the sport beyond this first jump, it might be well worth your while to consider investing your money into the first required dive of your AFF (Accelerated Freefall) certification. Your tandem jump, in most cases, will not apply towards this series of jumps, making your investment in the tandem jump somewhat of a waste if you pursue licensing. Only you know the answer to that question, and as long as money isn’t an issue (and if it is you might want to find a cheaper sport) you can just do the tandem jump anyway.
2) Static Line Jumps:
While not as popular as tandem and AFF, Static line jumps offer an option that combines the thrill of piloting your own chute without the concern of deploying it. Though the methods can vary, basically you jump from the plane at a much lower altitude, around 3000-5000 feet as opposed to 12-14,000 for tandem and AFF. As you jump, a line attached to your chute deploys it as you exit and fall away from the plane. In an AFF or tandem jump chutes are typically deployed around 5000 feet, hence this flight altitude for static line deployments. There is literally zero freefall on a static line jump.
3) Accelerated Freefall (AFF) Jumps:
Accelerated Freefall courses combine ground school classes and a series of jumps taken with two instructors, maintaining progressively less hand contact with you on each subsequent jump. This leads up to a completely unassisted solo jump where you will demonstrate basic maneuvers. While these jumps are typically taken to receive your USPA (United States Parachute Association) license, it is not (usually) a requirement that you perform the subsequent jumps in order to do the first one. While the price of that first dive is higher than a tandem jump (far more ground school and two instructors per diver), it also offers a bigger thrill and substantial feeling of accomplishment. Most skydiving schools will have you complete your ground school and first AFF jump in a single day. If you continue on with your training, you‘ll eventually receive your USPA licensing after you have met all requirements and taken the required tests. This licensing is required by nearly all drop zones in order to jump solo.
Armed with this information, you can now start narrowing down the selection based on your skydiving requirements. Look for schools that are USPA-member drop zones. Take the time to research the drop zone and get a feel from other divers about your drop zone(s) of choice. Most drop zones are typically very warm and friendly, and give newcomers as much attention as their regulars. There are, from time to time, skydiving schools/drop zones that cater more towards one end of the scale than the other. User opinions and reviews can reveal this if you take the time to do the research. This is easily accomplished at the website referenced below.
The most important thing of all, however, is that you have fun. Despite all of the advice from your well-intentioned friends, that fact is that your desire to pursue this sport puts you in a whole different category than those folks. Fear of falling is primal; we all feel it and are genetically predisposed to it. The dividing line is between those who fear, but have enough courage to control that fear and transform it into an incredible experience, and those who fear, shrink from it, and declare that anyone who doesn’t is insane. Put your fears aside, dive into human flight and enjoy the thrill of a lifetime!
So now what? Finding a top-notch skydiving school can seem like a daunting task. Every skydiving school web site you visit seems great at first blush, but then you start to see a trend develop, namely, they seem to all claim to be the best, friendliest, safest, and highest-jumping drop zones in the world. Though your friends, still coming to grips with your decision, might argue that you clearly have no common sense, you know full well that you do. That same common sense is telling you that not all of these schools can actually be the best. So how does one actually choose? How do you read through the hype and come away with the best thrill of your life?
It’s a good question, and deserves a good answer because you only get a first jump once in life. Here then, is the answer to that question, a short guide to selecting the best skydiving school for you. The best way to begin is by actually defining what your desired end result of this experience is to be. Seems like a no-brainer; the end result is to simply jump out of an airplane and float to the ground, right? Wrong. There’s a lot about how you get from air to there that can influence your experience and ultimately your opinion of the sport.
The first step to making this decision is in understanding the types of jumps that are available to you. I will explain each, along with the pros and cons.
1) Tandem Jump:
A tandem jump is a method of jumping where you exit the plane not with a parachute strapped to your back but an entire instructor. This is the most popular choice for new divers and is highly promoted by drop zones. The reason for this is multi-faceted; there is no responsibility on the new skydiver’s part, they simply go with the flow and the instructor does all the work. This diminishes nearly all new-diver fault risks but also has a higher profit margin for the drop zone. Given the responsibility-free nature of a tandem jump for the new skydiver, the ground portion can be done in an hour or less, and requires only a one-to-one instructor/jumper ratio, where Accelerated Free Fall initial jumps require two instructors and far more ground school. If you are simply jumping to be able to buy the tee shirt from having done it once in your life, this method is for you. The relief of putting all the worry into the hands of a capable pro is terrific. If, however, you think you may want to take up the sport beyond this first jump, it might be well worth your while to consider investing your money into the first required dive of your AFF (Accelerated Freefall) certification. Your tandem jump, in most cases, will not apply towards this series of jumps, making your investment in the tandem jump somewhat of a waste if you pursue licensing. Only you know the answer to that question, and as long as money isn’t an issue (and if it is you might want to find a cheaper sport) you can just do the tandem jump anyway.
2) Static Line Jumps:
While not as popular as tandem and AFF, Static line jumps offer an option that combines the thrill of piloting your own chute without the concern of deploying it. Though the methods can vary, basically you jump from the plane at a much lower altitude, around 3000-5000 feet as opposed to 12-14,000 for tandem and AFF. As you jump, a line attached to your chute deploys it as you exit and fall away from the plane. In an AFF or tandem jump chutes are typically deployed around 5000 feet, hence this flight altitude for static line deployments. There is literally zero freefall on a static line jump.
3) Accelerated Freefall (AFF) Jumps:
Accelerated Freefall courses combine ground school classes and a series of jumps taken with two instructors, maintaining progressively less hand contact with you on each subsequent jump. This leads up to a completely unassisted solo jump where you will demonstrate basic maneuvers. While these jumps are typically taken to receive your USPA (United States Parachute Association) license, it is not (usually) a requirement that you perform the subsequent jumps in order to do the first one. While the price of that first dive is higher than a tandem jump (far more ground school and two instructors per diver), it also offers a bigger thrill and substantial feeling of accomplishment. Most skydiving schools will have you complete your ground school and first AFF jump in a single day. If you continue on with your training, you‘ll eventually receive your USPA licensing after you have met all requirements and taken the required tests. This licensing is required by nearly all drop zones in order to jump solo.
Armed with this information, you can now start narrowing down the selection based on your skydiving requirements. Look for schools that are USPA-member drop zones. Take the time to research the drop zone and get a feel from other divers about your drop zone(s) of choice. Most drop zones are typically very warm and friendly, and give newcomers as much attention as their regulars. There are, from time to time, skydiving schools/drop zones that cater more towards one end of the scale than the other. User opinions and reviews can reveal this if you take the time to do the research. This is easily accomplished at the website referenced below.
The most important thing of all, however, is that you have fun. Despite all of the advice from your well-intentioned friends, that fact is that your desire to pursue this sport puts you in a whole different category than those folks. Fear of falling is primal; we all feel it and are genetically predisposed to it. The dividing line is between those who fear, but have enough courage to control that fear and transform it into an incredible experience, and those who fear, shrink from it, and declare that anyone who doesn’t is insane. Put your fears aside, dive into human flight and enjoy the thrill of a lifetime!
Interview with Mine's Niikura Michizo: GT-R Super Tuner
"The name: It's plural of mine. I thought 'Mine's' would be better than answering, 'Niikura'. I designed the logo myself. I like simple and cool designs. I like simple cool designs, that's why my cars aren't always decked out. "
You may or may not know the name Niikura Michizo, but you definitely know the name Mine's. Born in 1952 in Hayama, Japan, Michizo is the man responsible for the Japanese tuning house that has developed some of the fastest GT-Rs in the world. Niikura-san's long love of the GT-R began in his teens when his father gave him a hand-me-down Skyline—nice dad, huh? His first “new” car was a Celica GT-S.
While in high school he maintained a huge interest in motorbikes as well as cars. It was at Isho College that he'd further develop into a forward-thinking engineer and tuner. Almost right after college Michizo joined Bridgestone and there he remained for 12 years, moonlighting the last few years to start up Mine's. Rather than blowing the money on sake and women, he wisely invested his earnings at Bridgestone to buy the necessary equipment to make sure that his shop would be more than just a lift and an air compressor.
"The name: It's plural of mine. I thought 'Mine's' would be better than answering, 'Niikura'. I designed the logo myself. I like simple and cool designs. I like simple cool designs, that's why my cars aren't always decked out. "
You may or may not know the name Niikura Michizo, but you definitely know the name Mine's. Born in 1952 in Hayama, Japan, Michizo is the man responsible for the Japanese tuning house that has developed some of the fastest GT-Rs in the world. Niikura-san's long love of the GT-R began in his teens when his father gave him a hand-me-down Skyline—nice dad, huh? His first “new” car was a Celica GT-S.
While in high school he maintained a huge interest in motorbikes as well as cars. It was at Isho College that he'd further develop into a forward-thinking engineer and tuner. Almost right after college Michizo joined Bridgestone and there he remained for 12 years, moonlighting the last few years to start up Mine's. Rather than blowing the money on sake and women, he wisely invested his earnings at Bridgestone to buy the necessary equipment to make sure that his shop would be more than just a lift and an air compressor.
After Bridgestone you established Mine's. What concept did you have in mind?
Simple is best. A well-balanced car that stops, turns and can go fast. Another thing, I like to do things that my competitors don't and can't do. I like to do things fast. I like to build [my products and cars] quickly and be on time. I hate to be slower than anyone else. Tuning doesn't have regulations like motorsports, but my thing is to be faster than the cars that are fully decked out like motorsports cars. The parts I develop are for my customers, but they also have to function and be good for the car. I want to keep my parts as realistic attainable tuning parts for consumers. It's easy to build a bigger displacement engine, but how many people do that? Which leads to keeping it simple.
I learned a lot in my younger years. I had been involved with motorsports and worked with them when I was younger. I wanted to learn; the whole experience was a learning process. Teams are just there to win. I wanted to absorb what was available to me from motorsports. And I've put what I've learned in that experience into my tuning and products. From R32 to beginning of R34 I was prety much went to every race in the Super Taikyu series.
You must have become very familiar with the series, but also the development of racing and products. How do you use R&D to develop your products?
To develop my parts I would actually get into races and test my products. I do a lot of tenstive on-track testing privately. Testing, R&D you don't necessarily have to go full throttle for a race distance. That's not what's needed for R&D. What I've striving for is not the ultimate speed or quickness or time. It's actually drivability, or driving pleasure. It has to do with feeling comfortable while you're driving, what the driver feels. You Have to feel good, safe about the feel of the vehicle. That's a lot deeper than just speed or horsepower.
Tell us about the GT-R legacy and why you've chosen to continually developer the Skyline.
Long ago it was known as a very good car and the one to tune. And that's what I was attracted to. I was attracted to the potential of the GT-R and because it was difficult to tune. For the US, I'm really looking forward to releasing parts for the Z and the new 2008 Nissan GT-R. I want to open a shop in LA and have that be my US headquarters. Sometime next year.
What are your thoughts on the new VQ38 versus the older RB26?
They're completely diferent engines, of course, but they're both GT-R motors. They're great motors. Even if the new engine isn't an RB, I can tune it. I'm not worried. As a characterisics of the car, I don't think it's the type of car you just want to max out the horsepower on. The characteristic of the new GT-R won't be to boost the engine power, but to increase the total factor of the car a little higher. With the VQ it's an advancement of technology using an aluminum blocking, compact V- engine. I have no worries about the engine, because it's been developed by one of the best engineers at Nissan. I'm confident it's a good engine to start with.
And what about the old GT-R versus the new one?
In Japan a lot of people say that the R33 isn't an exact successor to the first-generation GT-R, it's not an improvement, neither is the R34 to the R33. Neither is the R35 to the R34. They have all their own characterisitics. Some good and bad. Some people like the R32 better etc. So all four of them would have different characteristrics.
What is your philosophy on design and how does that factor into the looks of the new GT-R?
I think overall the design concept or deisgn character is similar to the R32 and R33. The R34 is a sportier looking car. And that's your first impression. Whereas the R32 and R33 and new GT-R is design more or less than grows on you. The GT-R and Ferrari are two different cars. The GT-R enthusiasts wouldn't accept the GT-R to be like the Ferrari and neither are the designers trying to imitate Ferrari—contrary to what some people may think. The debut of the R32 is very similar to the current vehicle. But even now the R32 is the most popular Skyline of all time.
Who do you see purchasing the new GT-R and what rivals does it have in Japan and in Europe?
I don't think, at this point, there are any rivals to the GT-R in Japan. If it's not limited to Japanese cars it'd be Porsche and BMW. I think the buyer would probably increase a little bit in terms of age, higher than before.
Moving onto a slightly different topic, you've been in just about every version of Sony'sGran Turismo. Is Mine's in the next GT?
350Z and the GT-R will be in the new Gran Turismo. When I get the new GT-R, I assume it'll be in the game, too. I'm looking forwad to getting involved with the game again. I work closely with Yamauchi-san, I know him very well and ensure that my vehicles feel like they should in the game. The production study of the game it's very intense, very precise. They use a lot of laser scanning devices to scan the whole car. I do give input of the sound of the car and all other parameters.
When should we expect the next Mine's Nissan GT-R? And what color will it be?
I hope to release the new GT-R within this year. And it'll be white of course.
Get the full story with drifting and car racing video footage of Niikura Michizo interview.
You may or may not know the name Niikura Michizo, but you definitely know the name Mine's. Born in 1952 in Hayama, Japan, Michizo is the man responsible for the Japanese tuning house that has developed some of the fastest GT-Rs in the world. Niikura-san's long love of the GT-R began in his teens when his father gave him a hand-me-down Skyline—nice dad, huh? His first “new” car was a Celica GT-S.
While in high school he maintained a huge interest in motorbikes as well as cars. It was at Isho College that he'd further develop into a forward-thinking engineer and tuner. Almost right after college Michizo joined Bridgestone and there he remained for 12 years, moonlighting the last few years to start up Mine's. Rather than blowing the money on sake and women, he wisely invested his earnings at Bridgestone to buy the necessary equipment to make sure that his shop would be more than just a lift and an air compressor.
"The name: It's plural of mine. I thought 'Mine's' would be better than answering, 'Niikura'. I designed the logo myself. I like simple and cool designs. I like simple cool designs, that's why my cars aren't always decked out. "
You may or may not know the name Niikura Michizo, but you definitely know the name Mine's. Born in 1952 in Hayama, Japan, Michizo is the man responsible for the Japanese tuning house that has developed some of the fastest GT-Rs in the world. Niikura-san's long love of the GT-R began in his teens when his father gave him a hand-me-down Skyline—nice dad, huh? His first “new” car was a Celica GT-S.
While in high school he maintained a huge interest in motorbikes as well as cars. It was at Isho College that he'd further develop into a forward-thinking engineer and tuner. Almost right after college Michizo joined Bridgestone and there he remained for 12 years, moonlighting the last few years to start up Mine's. Rather than blowing the money on sake and women, he wisely invested his earnings at Bridgestone to buy the necessary equipment to make sure that his shop would be more than just a lift and an air compressor.
After Bridgestone you established Mine's. What concept did you have in mind?
Simple is best. A well-balanced car that stops, turns and can go fast. Another thing, I like to do things that my competitors don't and can't do. I like to do things fast. I like to build [my products and cars] quickly and be on time. I hate to be slower than anyone else. Tuning doesn't have regulations like motorsports, but my thing is to be faster than the cars that are fully decked out like motorsports cars. The parts I develop are for my customers, but they also have to function and be good for the car. I want to keep my parts as realistic attainable tuning parts for consumers. It's easy to build a bigger displacement engine, but how many people do that? Which leads to keeping it simple.
I learned a lot in my younger years. I had been involved with motorsports and worked with them when I was younger. I wanted to learn; the whole experience was a learning process. Teams are just there to win. I wanted to absorb what was available to me from motorsports. And I've put what I've learned in that experience into my tuning and products. From R32 to beginning of R34 I was prety much went to every race in the Super Taikyu series.
You must have become very familiar with the series, but also the development of racing and products. How do you use R&D to develop your products?
To develop my parts I would actually get into races and test my products. I do a lot of tenstive on-track testing privately. Testing, R&D you don't necessarily have to go full throttle for a race distance. That's not what's needed for R&D. What I've striving for is not the ultimate speed or quickness or time. It's actually drivability, or driving pleasure. It has to do with feeling comfortable while you're driving, what the driver feels. You Have to feel good, safe about the feel of the vehicle. That's a lot deeper than just speed or horsepower.
Tell us about the GT-R legacy and why you've chosen to continually developer the Skyline.
Long ago it was known as a very good car and the one to tune. And that's what I was attracted to. I was attracted to the potential of the GT-R and because it was difficult to tune. For the US, I'm really looking forward to releasing parts for the Z and the new 2008 Nissan GT-R. I want to open a shop in LA and have that be my US headquarters. Sometime next year.
What are your thoughts on the new VQ38 versus the older RB26?
They're completely diferent engines, of course, but they're both GT-R motors. They're great motors. Even if the new engine isn't an RB, I can tune it. I'm not worried. As a characterisics of the car, I don't think it's the type of car you just want to max out the horsepower on. The characteristic of the new GT-R won't be to boost the engine power, but to increase the total factor of the car a little higher. With the VQ it's an advancement of technology using an aluminum blocking, compact V- engine. I have no worries about the engine, because it's been developed by one of the best engineers at Nissan. I'm confident it's a good engine to start with.
And what about the old GT-R versus the new one?
In Japan a lot of people say that the R33 isn't an exact successor to the first-generation GT-R, it's not an improvement, neither is the R34 to the R33. Neither is the R35 to the R34. They have all their own characterisitics. Some good and bad. Some people like the R32 better etc. So all four of them would have different characteristrics.
What is your philosophy on design and how does that factor into the looks of the new GT-R?
I think overall the design concept or deisgn character is similar to the R32 and R33. The R34 is a sportier looking car. And that's your first impression. Whereas the R32 and R33 and new GT-R is design more or less than grows on you. The GT-R and Ferrari are two different cars. The GT-R enthusiasts wouldn't accept the GT-R to be like the Ferrari and neither are the designers trying to imitate Ferrari—contrary to what some people may think. The debut of the R32 is very similar to the current vehicle. But even now the R32 is the most popular Skyline of all time.
Who do you see purchasing the new GT-R and what rivals does it have in Japan and in Europe?
I don't think, at this point, there are any rivals to the GT-R in Japan. If it's not limited to Japanese cars it'd be Porsche and BMW. I think the buyer would probably increase a little bit in terms of age, higher than before.
Moving onto a slightly different topic, you've been in just about every version of Sony'sGran Turismo. Is Mine's in the next GT?
350Z and the GT-R will be in the new Gran Turismo. When I get the new GT-R, I assume it'll be in the game, too. I'm looking forwad to getting involved with the game again. I work closely with Yamauchi-san, I know him very well and ensure that my vehicles feel like they should in the game. The production study of the game it's very intense, very precise. They use a lot of laser scanning devices to scan the whole car. I do give input of the sound of the car and all other parameters.
When should we expect the next Mine's Nissan GT-R? And what color will it be?
I hope to release the new GT-R within this year. And it'll be white of course.
Get the full story with drifting and car racing video footage of Niikura Michizo interview.
Go Kart Frames - Choosing the Right One for You
Karting enthusiasts emblazon the image of the perfect chassis in their minds: lightweight, yet powerfully durable material capable of launching a kart forward without the slightest wear or tear. Rare material that comes with the likes of professionally built popular race-cars like the illustrious McLaren. What about karts that could rip through side turns at speeding bullet speeds without raising a wheel a centimeter above the ground, gliding swiftly like a falco such as the futuristic cars in I, Robot? And along with perfect frames comes perfect tires, tires "grooven" to perfection providing the finest traction and downright freakish controls when running the curve.
Let's discuss the intricacies and place a perspective on frames for your go-kart. The chassis as it is called in professional and enthusiast circles, is by far the most important piece of this machine. The construction is paramount in maintaining a solid go-kart. What constitutes a frame? Think of a frame simply as parts holding a component together. In the case of these speedsters, the frame is welded together by torsion bars. Stiff frames are a result of shorter bars crossed together, and more flexible frames are associated with longer bars.
Stiff frames that do not provide flexibility were the backbone of earlier go-karts and broke down easily. First off, simpler go-karts do not have the specifications needed (most important, suspension and tire traction) to ease the punishment frames go through while turning, accelerating, and stopping. Running on 2 or 4 cycle engines does not help compensate the health of a frame. A lack of traction on your tires will cause uneven weight transfer and stability on your frame, ripping one or both sides loose at the same time. In essence, the frame is responsible for determining how well your vehicle moves zipping on asphalt, concrete, or dirt - dictating your performance on wide turns and shorter turns.
A sturdy, well-built frame is the key to manoeuvring well on the track, especially when turning. Wait, isn't a frame supposed to be resistant to the rigors and demands of punishing your go-kart as it explodes forward? Of course - but the most important criteria for an excellent frame is to negotiate turns well. Frames are directly responsible for how well go-karts turn left and right. Weaker go-karts with cheap components are known to slide and drift along turns - in some instances, flipping to its side entirely with careless driving. "Side bite" is referred to keeping a go-kart planted to the track without sliding. Without the proper frame, go-karts will manoeuvre out of control, even shutting off in some cases due to over pressure to the engine.
The design of the go-kart chassis has everything to do with how well it moves on turns and maintaining side bite. If the width of the rear rails (go-kart frames constitute front rails and rear rails) is narrow, with measurements ranging from 24¨ to 25¨ - from "kingpin" to "kingpin", the ends of the rail - it will have less side bite. Wider rails barely ever exceed 30¨ on standard go-karts. The dynamics of the front and rear rails can be effectively pictured using this example: suppose you had two bottles - a two-gallon jug and a 16 oz. Water bottle. Giving it a swift, hard poke to its side - which container has the best chance of tipping to its side? If you guessed the water bottle, you guessed right! Wider rails provide stability and "foundation" while turning, reducing the side bite overall.
Choosing the right frame for your go-kart can largely depend on the surface you are riding on. Whether it is asphalt, concrete, or dirt - different types of frames behave differently according to surface. For example, dirt track frames should consist of a short front rail and a longer back rail. Dirt tracks place a lot of stress and challenge on the front rail and stiff back rails zipping through dirt can cut power to the engine while cutting a turn. The best frame for riding dirt tracks are ones with narrow fronts and longer backs, vice versa to asphalt and concrete.
The A-1 performance of a frame largely depends on tire traction as well. Low traction tires (tires that do not "stick" well to the ground) are not grooved enough to withstand the rigors of the surface, rattling the stiff frame to oblivion. It also causes uneven weight transfer throughout the go-kart, and that is a no-no for maintaining optimum control of your money maker. Consider this scenario: you have two pairs of roller skates. One has wheels half-an-inch in width and the other has 3-inch-wide wheels. Which pair would provide better balance as you roller skate? If you love mathematics, treat traction as a formula with the equation: traction = stability. Go ahead, transform yourself into a karting aficionado with this valuable piece of knowledge!
A major issue among karting enthusiasts is the durability and longevity of flexible frames. Exposure to punishing breaks and turns, along with the gruelling hits to track walls every now and then, can distort the frame which cannot be "popped" back to its original condition. Experts recommend replacing frames every year. There are many maintenance techniques you could practice on your kart to keep flexibility intact like running your kart through a course backwards. Racing a kart using the finish line as your starting point and your starting point as the finish line will have a "reverse effect" on the frame, shaping it opposite of what it would be shaped if you were racing the course normally. It's like turning back the hands of time on your speedster!
The question over choosing the right go-kart chassis boils down to flexibility. High traction tires and a stiff frame is a recipe for disaster, causing your machine to turn stiffly and generate strenuous effort on the curves. Low traction tires will cause uneven weight transfer and break apart your frame like bread crumbs. Options for frames mainly depend on what type of go-kart you're riding, as each go-kart and their engine work best under certain scenarios. Stiff frames are a staple of 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines and flexible frames are found with higher horsepower engines. Remember, the more rigorous the circuit, the more flexible a chassis should be!
Let's discuss the intricacies and place a perspective on frames for your go-kart. The chassis as it is called in professional and enthusiast circles, is by far the most important piece of this machine. The construction is paramount in maintaining a solid go-kart. What constitutes a frame? Think of a frame simply as parts holding a component together. In the case of these speedsters, the frame is welded together by torsion bars. Stiff frames are a result of shorter bars crossed together, and more flexible frames are associated with longer bars.
Stiff frames that do not provide flexibility were the backbone of earlier go-karts and broke down easily. First off, simpler go-karts do not have the specifications needed (most important, suspension and tire traction) to ease the punishment frames go through while turning, accelerating, and stopping. Running on 2 or 4 cycle engines does not help compensate the health of a frame. A lack of traction on your tires will cause uneven weight transfer and stability on your frame, ripping one or both sides loose at the same time. In essence, the frame is responsible for determining how well your vehicle moves zipping on asphalt, concrete, or dirt - dictating your performance on wide turns and shorter turns.
A sturdy, well-built frame is the key to manoeuvring well on the track, especially when turning. Wait, isn't a frame supposed to be resistant to the rigors and demands of punishing your go-kart as it explodes forward? Of course - but the most important criteria for an excellent frame is to negotiate turns well. Frames are directly responsible for how well go-karts turn left and right. Weaker go-karts with cheap components are known to slide and drift along turns - in some instances, flipping to its side entirely with careless driving. "Side bite" is referred to keeping a go-kart planted to the track without sliding. Without the proper frame, go-karts will manoeuvre out of control, even shutting off in some cases due to over pressure to the engine.
The design of the go-kart chassis has everything to do with how well it moves on turns and maintaining side bite. If the width of the rear rails (go-kart frames constitute front rails and rear rails) is narrow, with measurements ranging from 24¨ to 25¨ - from "kingpin" to "kingpin", the ends of the rail - it will have less side bite. Wider rails barely ever exceed 30¨ on standard go-karts. The dynamics of the front and rear rails can be effectively pictured using this example: suppose you had two bottles - a two-gallon jug and a 16 oz. Water bottle. Giving it a swift, hard poke to its side - which container has the best chance of tipping to its side? If you guessed the water bottle, you guessed right! Wider rails provide stability and "foundation" while turning, reducing the side bite overall.
Choosing the right frame for your go-kart can largely depend on the surface you are riding on. Whether it is asphalt, concrete, or dirt - different types of frames behave differently according to surface. For example, dirt track frames should consist of a short front rail and a longer back rail. Dirt tracks place a lot of stress and challenge on the front rail and stiff back rails zipping through dirt can cut power to the engine while cutting a turn. The best frame for riding dirt tracks are ones with narrow fronts and longer backs, vice versa to asphalt and concrete.
The A-1 performance of a frame largely depends on tire traction as well. Low traction tires (tires that do not "stick" well to the ground) are not grooved enough to withstand the rigors of the surface, rattling the stiff frame to oblivion. It also causes uneven weight transfer throughout the go-kart, and that is a no-no for maintaining optimum control of your money maker. Consider this scenario: you have two pairs of roller skates. One has wheels half-an-inch in width and the other has 3-inch-wide wheels. Which pair would provide better balance as you roller skate? If you love mathematics, treat traction as a formula with the equation: traction = stability. Go ahead, transform yourself into a karting aficionado with this valuable piece of knowledge!
A major issue among karting enthusiasts is the durability and longevity of flexible frames. Exposure to punishing breaks and turns, along with the gruelling hits to track walls every now and then, can distort the frame which cannot be "popped" back to its original condition. Experts recommend replacing frames every year. There are many maintenance techniques you could practice on your kart to keep flexibility intact like running your kart through a course backwards. Racing a kart using the finish line as your starting point and your starting point as the finish line will have a "reverse effect" on the frame, shaping it opposite of what it would be shaped if you were racing the course normally. It's like turning back the hands of time on your speedster!
The question over choosing the right go-kart chassis boils down to flexibility. High traction tires and a stiff frame is a recipe for disaster, causing your machine to turn stiffly and generate strenuous effort on the curves. Low traction tires will cause uneven weight transfer and break apart your frame like bread crumbs. Options for frames mainly depend on what type of go-kart you're riding, as each go-kart and their engine work best under certain scenarios. Stiff frames are a staple of 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines and flexible frames are found with higher horsepower engines. Remember, the more rigorous the circuit, the more flexible a chassis should be!
Your Habits Will Determine Your Future
We all have dreams, desires, goals and it’s great to daydream about what it would be like holding that title belt high in the air feeling the energy of the crowd cheering you on. Back to reality now and here’s a question for you. How much time do you put into a day to make that dream come true? The time you spend training or doing something productive to get closer to your goal or dream, compared to sitting on your couch watching TV.
Don’t get me wrong daydreaming can be productive if you know how to creatively visualize. Realize that your habits will determine your future. Successful people have successful habits, unsuccessful people don’t. To get your dream to materialize you need a plan to structure your time into productive slots. All successful people have a plan, follow it, and gauge their progress by it.
Work towards making the majority of your time being productive towards your goal, i.e. training and conditioning, read and view material that is going to help you become a better fighter such as viewing video of your fights and your opponents to see what you need to work on.
IT’S ALL ABOUT WERE YOU PUT YOUR FOCUS
Ninety percent of your focus and energy should be directed at your fight plan and career if you want to succeed in the MMA world or in any goal in life. Instead of coming home from a long day at work kicking back with a beer and watching the game, put on an instructional dvd to help you learn new techniques or improve on your speed or power.
Go to the gym left weights, do cardio, strength train or work on techniques with your sparring partner. During work or on your way home visualize yourself in a match performing a technique you have recently learned, so it becomes ingrained in your subconscious and is in your arsenal. Build on your strengths, not on your weakness.
There are three kinds of people, people that make things happen, people that watch things happen and people who say what just happened. Which one are you? So if you keep asking yourself why your fight career isn’t happening take an honest inventory of yourself because it’s about were we put the focus in our life that determines were we are going.
If you keep on doing what you always done you’ll keep getting what you always got. Making your dreams become reality is not about luck, or “if it’s meant to be it will happen”. It’s not hocus-pocus; it’s all about were you put your focus.
Don’t get me wrong daydreaming can be productive if you know how to creatively visualize. Realize that your habits will determine your future. Successful people have successful habits, unsuccessful people don’t. To get your dream to materialize you need a plan to structure your time into productive slots. All successful people have a plan, follow it, and gauge their progress by it.
Work towards making the majority of your time being productive towards your goal, i.e. training and conditioning, read and view material that is going to help you become a better fighter such as viewing video of your fights and your opponents to see what you need to work on.
IT’S ALL ABOUT WERE YOU PUT YOUR FOCUS
Ninety percent of your focus and energy should be directed at your fight plan and career if you want to succeed in the MMA world or in any goal in life. Instead of coming home from a long day at work kicking back with a beer and watching the game, put on an instructional dvd to help you learn new techniques or improve on your speed or power.
Go to the gym left weights, do cardio, strength train or work on techniques with your sparring partner. During work or on your way home visualize yourself in a match performing a technique you have recently learned, so it becomes ingrained in your subconscious and is in your arsenal. Build on your strengths, not on your weakness.
There are three kinds of people, people that make things happen, people that watch things happen and people who say what just happened. Which one are you? So if you keep asking yourself why your fight career isn’t happening take an honest inventory of yourself because it’s about were we put the focus in our life that determines were we are going.
If you keep on doing what you always done you’ll keep getting what you always got. Making your dreams become reality is not about luck, or “if it’s meant to be it will happen”. It’s not hocus-pocus; it’s all about were you put your focus.
Fishing News: Fly Fishing, the best tips!
The reproduction of the trouts requires special conditions. The fact to fish outside the dates authorized implies a new element of alteration: the death of reproducers and the loss - to medium term of one of main attractive the tourist ones of the region.
We reiterated that we talked about exotic species. The Law protects the native fauna in all the cases.
The fishing modalities go from spinning (with teaspoon from the coast) or trolling (it fishes embarked), to fly-casting (it fishes with fly). The places for each modality will be able to consult them in the regulation of fishing or the tourist information bureaus. In order to acquire equipment specific commerce very well assorted exists. An advice: to always resort to the services of a fishing guide. Many and very good exist, and will be the best election to guarantee an unforgettable day
1. Use a double taper line for your dry line fishing. Many shops and instructors like to have a new caster use the weight forward dry line because it gives the illusion of greater distance and power than a double taper line. This is truly an illusion. The weight forward line is a shooting head and has all the benefits and drawbacks of a shooting head. A given rod will throw a weight forward farther than a double taper, but not much. A double taper first of all feels like a fly line. It has a silky, comfortable feel and has the virtue of demanding a little better technique and understanding of the casting process. A double taper will mend beautifully. It can be reversed when one end wears out. With your double taper floater you can roll cast like nobody's business out to fifty or seventy feet, depending on the bushes. A double taper will execute a Spey cast just fine with a single-handed fly rod. This is valuable when you are back to back with trees and bushes. If you have ten or fifteen feet behind you a dynamic roll cast will get you way more than fifty feet into the river or lake. The place you need a weight forward dry line is tropical surface fishing for bones and tarpon etc. where you need lots of distance in a hurry.
2. Buy a stiff double taper dry line. This is not a commercial site but you can find high end lines that are stiffer than the others and these will make casting much more of a joy. The stiff line shoots through the guides more readily and it does not tangle like the very flexible ones.
3. Don’t be too lazy to use line dressing on your dry line regularly. The line picks up algae and dirt and gets to be not so smooth. If you dress it you not only remove the scum but you lubricate the line and it shoots through the guides like a dream. It also floats higher which is particularly helpful when you are making that fifty-foot roll cast.
4. Concentrate on your back cast. With a good strong straight back cast the fore cast or lay down is a snap. It is the back cast that counts.
5. Practice for short periods regularly. One way to induce this good habit is to keep a rod set up in your garage or closet and step outside for a few minutes whenever you feel like it and practice something. We cut little circles or squares from plastic milk jugs, punch a small hole with an awl, the sharp point on a compass or any such tool and then cut a slit from the edge to the hole with a jack knife. We pull the tippet through this by the practice fly or yarn fly and leave the rod either fully assembled or half and half with the leader straight. We walk out the door and Voila! we are fishing. ( well almost)
6. When you practice something. Always have an objective. You can practice on the sidewalk, across the street, in the parking strip or anywhere but have an objective. Becoming a journeyman fly caster is like learning a musical instrument, basketball, tennis or any other skill. Practice is focused on one or two points at a time.
7. Be prepared to backslide on what you know while you are adding to your fly-casting skills. It is a normal learning pattern to make two steps forward and then one step back.
8. Take a blond, brunette, redhead, grey head, silver head or any head fishing with a fly rod. Fly casting is not a gender specific sport. We know couples where the wife casts in tournaments and fishes and the husband goes along to enjoy the camaraderie and the scenery. We know couples where the man is the caster and the woman does the bird watching.
9. Critique one another. If you have a friend who thinks casting is a worthwhile pursuit watch each other cast and dissect your strokes. The most telling signal of good or bad practice is the character of the back cast. It tells more about the state of your progress than anything else.
10. Watch your own back cast from time to time. We have seen casting works that recommend that the caster watch every back cast and we have seen others that recommend that the caster never look at the back cast. Neither of these positions is tenable. Turning your head or body to observe your back cast disturbs the geometry of your arm and shoulder joints etc. and is not ideal body mechanics but you must know what is going on behind you to evaluate your cast. Ultimately you will become so grooved that the friendly little tug of the line will announce that you're on the right track. We have film of a world champion caster who looks at his back cast in distance events. He does this to see if the line is straightened out and in an optimum position to accept the strength he will put into the final forecast.
11. Wait for the friendly little tug of your line on the back cast. In order to feel this tug you must have a short stroke on the back cast, about 1:00 or 1:30 is fine. The farther back you get the less you can feel the tug of the back cast. After 2:00 it is pretty subtle.
12. For long and powerful roll casts learn the dynamic roll cast. The basic roll cast is taught in the static mode - the rod drawn back to about the 1:00 o'clock position, letting the line fall and then making the casting stroke forward. The cast works because you have put enough line behind you to be able to impel it forward. For a dynamic roll cast you throw a small loop of the line behind you and commence the casting stroke while the line is still bellied out behind. You doted full casting stroke - load the rod with hand movement, add the power stroke with mainly wrist movement and snap the tip. This will drive the line out in a fifty or sixty foot roll cast. You can snap it high to get the line into the air for a soft dry fly landing or you can snap it farther forward and make the line roll out on the water for a wet fly presentation or to overcome the wind. It is important to start the forward casting stroke immediately after the loop of line bellies out behind. There are two reasons: First, the line is at its’ maximum distance behind, giving you more room for the loading part of your stroke. Second, the floating part of the line has come to the top of the surface and has no time to sink a little bit and slow down your cast. I first saw this at a fishing show and was astonished at the power. The amount of line you can throw behind is dependent on the amount of space behind. If there is fifteen feet clearance behind you can throw a fifteen foot belly of line behind - that's thirty feet of line you are moving forward. This dynamic roll cast blends all the way from the static roll cast with the line hanging straight down from the rod tip two feet behind your ear to a full blown power roll with not much more than the leader and a little bit of line remaining on the water. The amount you throw behind depends on how much room there is and how far you want to roll cast. The Spey cast is a variety of dynamic roll cast or the dynamic roll cast is a spey cast in a straight line. This cast is very useful fishing and for hitting targets in accuracy games. Try to keep the back toss as close to your body as possible without fouling. It works fine on the off shoulder also. You can get just as much power on the off shoulder when the line is down stream on that side or the wind is blowing from your dominant side. Try it. You'll like it. Warning - It takes practice to get the feel and timing down.
13. If you want to improve your range and distance and are willing to practice try to practice with a medium stiff rod. The softer the rod the easier it is to tail your loop and overpower the rod. If you concentrate on loading the rod before cranking in the power stroke, the softer rod will discipline your stroke by giving a horrendous tailing loop if you load or haul too fast. Then when you are out there with your cannon rod, the slower motions forced by the soft rod will permit you to load the rod nicely and then apply the horsepower.
14. The softer rod will also give you a chance to acquire a feel for delaying the haul until the rod is loaded. We all have experienced the paradox of doing a languorous sleepy sort of cast and being surprised at the way the line flew out there. Then when we try to really do it and make it really go we get a short untidy cast. A haul started before the rod is bent - loaded- from the inertia of the line will distort a good loading motion by further bending the tip toward the ground, driving the line down and expending part of the haul in bending the rod rather than moving the line.
15. One effect of a good load is a heavy feel to the rod. If the rod feels heavy during the power stroke you will know that you have both straightened out the line before loading and loaded the rod at the right tempo. This is true on both false casts and back casts. If the rod feels light you know that you are not adding as many foot-pounds of kinetic energy to the line as you are when the rod feels heavy. The faster the line is moving the more foot pounds of kinetic energy it has to carry it through the air resistance.
We reiterated that we talked about exotic species. The Law protects the native fauna in all the cases.
The fishing modalities go from spinning (with teaspoon from the coast) or trolling (it fishes embarked), to fly-casting (it fishes with fly). The places for each modality will be able to consult them in the regulation of fishing or the tourist information bureaus. In order to acquire equipment specific commerce very well assorted exists. An advice: to always resort to the services of a fishing guide. Many and very good exist, and will be the best election to guarantee an unforgettable day
1. Use a double taper line for your dry line fishing. Many shops and instructors like to have a new caster use the weight forward dry line because it gives the illusion of greater distance and power than a double taper line. This is truly an illusion. The weight forward line is a shooting head and has all the benefits and drawbacks of a shooting head. A given rod will throw a weight forward farther than a double taper, but not much. A double taper first of all feels like a fly line. It has a silky, comfortable feel and has the virtue of demanding a little better technique and understanding of the casting process. A double taper will mend beautifully. It can be reversed when one end wears out. With your double taper floater you can roll cast like nobody's business out to fifty or seventy feet, depending on the bushes. A double taper will execute a Spey cast just fine with a single-handed fly rod. This is valuable when you are back to back with trees and bushes. If you have ten or fifteen feet behind you a dynamic roll cast will get you way more than fifty feet into the river or lake. The place you need a weight forward dry line is tropical surface fishing for bones and tarpon etc. where you need lots of distance in a hurry.
2. Buy a stiff double taper dry line. This is not a commercial site but you can find high end lines that are stiffer than the others and these will make casting much more of a joy. The stiff line shoots through the guides more readily and it does not tangle like the very flexible ones.
3. Don’t be too lazy to use line dressing on your dry line regularly. The line picks up algae and dirt and gets to be not so smooth. If you dress it you not only remove the scum but you lubricate the line and it shoots through the guides like a dream. It also floats higher which is particularly helpful when you are making that fifty-foot roll cast.
4. Concentrate on your back cast. With a good strong straight back cast the fore cast or lay down is a snap. It is the back cast that counts.
5. Practice for short periods regularly. One way to induce this good habit is to keep a rod set up in your garage or closet and step outside for a few minutes whenever you feel like it and practice something. We cut little circles or squares from plastic milk jugs, punch a small hole with an awl, the sharp point on a compass or any such tool and then cut a slit from the edge to the hole with a jack knife. We pull the tippet through this by the practice fly or yarn fly and leave the rod either fully assembled or half and half with the leader straight. We walk out the door and Voila! we are fishing. ( well almost)
6. When you practice something. Always have an objective. You can practice on the sidewalk, across the street, in the parking strip or anywhere but have an objective. Becoming a journeyman fly caster is like learning a musical instrument, basketball, tennis or any other skill. Practice is focused on one or two points at a time.
7. Be prepared to backslide on what you know while you are adding to your fly-casting skills. It is a normal learning pattern to make two steps forward and then one step back.
8. Take a blond, brunette, redhead, grey head, silver head or any head fishing with a fly rod. Fly casting is not a gender specific sport. We know couples where the wife casts in tournaments and fishes and the husband goes along to enjoy the camaraderie and the scenery. We know couples where the man is the caster and the woman does the bird watching.
9. Critique one another. If you have a friend who thinks casting is a worthwhile pursuit watch each other cast and dissect your strokes. The most telling signal of good or bad practice is the character of the back cast. It tells more about the state of your progress than anything else.
10. Watch your own back cast from time to time. We have seen casting works that recommend that the caster watch every back cast and we have seen others that recommend that the caster never look at the back cast. Neither of these positions is tenable. Turning your head or body to observe your back cast disturbs the geometry of your arm and shoulder joints etc. and is not ideal body mechanics but you must know what is going on behind you to evaluate your cast. Ultimately you will become so grooved that the friendly little tug of the line will announce that you're on the right track. We have film of a world champion caster who looks at his back cast in distance events. He does this to see if the line is straightened out and in an optimum position to accept the strength he will put into the final forecast.
11. Wait for the friendly little tug of your line on the back cast. In order to feel this tug you must have a short stroke on the back cast, about 1:00 or 1:30 is fine. The farther back you get the less you can feel the tug of the back cast. After 2:00 it is pretty subtle.
12. For long and powerful roll casts learn the dynamic roll cast. The basic roll cast is taught in the static mode - the rod drawn back to about the 1:00 o'clock position, letting the line fall and then making the casting stroke forward. The cast works because you have put enough line behind you to be able to impel it forward. For a dynamic roll cast you throw a small loop of the line behind you and commence the casting stroke while the line is still bellied out behind. You doted full casting stroke - load the rod with hand movement, add the power stroke with mainly wrist movement and snap the tip. This will drive the line out in a fifty or sixty foot roll cast. You can snap it high to get the line into the air for a soft dry fly landing or you can snap it farther forward and make the line roll out on the water for a wet fly presentation or to overcome the wind. It is important to start the forward casting stroke immediately after the loop of line bellies out behind. There are two reasons: First, the line is at its’ maximum distance behind, giving you more room for the loading part of your stroke. Second, the floating part of the line has come to the top of the surface and has no time to sink a little bit and slow down your cast. I first saw this at a fishing show and was astonished at the power. The amount of line you can throw behind is dependent on the amount of space behind. If there is fifteen feet clearance behind you can throw a fifteen foot belly of line behind - that's thirty feet of line you are moving forward. This dynamic roll cast blends all the way from the static roll cast with the line hanging straight down from the rod tip two feet behind your ear to a full blown power roll with not much more than the leader and a little bit of line remaining on the water. The amount you throw behind depends on how much room there is and how far you want to roll cast. The Spey cast is a variety of dynamic roll cast or the dynamic roll cast is a spey cast in a straight line. This cast is very useful fishing and for hitting targets in accuracy games. Try to keep the back toss as close to your body as possible without fouling. It works fine on the off shoulder also. You can get just as much power on the off shoulder when the line is down stream on that side or the wind is blowing from your dominant side. Try it. You'll like it. Warning - It takes practice to get the feel and timing down.
13. If you want to improve your range and distance and are willing to practice try to practice with a medium stiff rod. The softer the rod the easier it is to tail your loop and overpower the rod. If you concentrate on loading the rod before cranking in the power stroke, the softer rod will discipline your stroke by giving a horrendous tailing loop if you load or haul too fast. Then when you are out there with your cannon rod, the slower motions forced by the soft rod will permit you to load the rod nicely and then apply the horsepower.
14. The softer rod will also give you a chance to acquire a feel for delaying the haul until the rod is loaded. We all have experienced the paradox of doing a languorous sleepy sort of cast and being surprised at the way the line flew out there. Then when we try to really do it and make it really go we get a short untidy cast. A haul started before the rod is bent - loaded- from the inertia of the line will distort a good loading motion by further bending the tip toward the ground, driving the line down and expending part of the haul in bending the rod rather than moving the line.
15. One effect of a good load is a heavy feel to the rod. If the rod feels heavy during the power stroke you will know that you have both straightened out the line before loading and loaded the rod at the right tempo. This is true on both false casts and back casts. If the rod feels light you know that you are not adding as many foot-pounds of kinetic energy to the line as you are when the rod feels heavy. The faster the line is moving the more foot pounds of kinetic energy it has to carry it through the air resistance.
Go Karts - Becoming a Racing Enthusiast
Imagine - ripping your torso as you hit a curve launching your sprint kart down the circuit. Pressing on the accelerator as you exercise dead-on hand-and-eye coordination determining the smartest way to turn the drift in the 21st minute of an hour-long enduro race. Or perhaps be a spectator - routing for the likes of Fernando Alonso and Michael Schumacher as they race neck-and-neck on the last lap. Guess what - you are breathing and witnessing (even smelling the distinctive aroma of clay dirt on the dirt track) the atmosphere that comes with go-kart racing.
Developed in the 1950´s by pilots with a zest for tinkering with motorcycle engines to propel simple frames, go-karting extended internationally after the construction of the first go-kart by Art Ingels in Pasadena. Before dwelling on it's mass European appeal and discussing the pinnacle of Formula 1 racing, let's backtrack for a second. Riding go-karts (or karting) is the best way to break into professional racing. It is the simplest means of exploding your chassis down the track before getting into the sophisticated arena of professional racing. Single cylinder engines, basic chassis models, and lack of speed producing components provide go-kart racing with the air of simplicity, geared towards beginners and novices.
The concept of sprint karting comes to our mind when we think of the prototypical kart & track in amusement parks, recreational areas, and arcade palaces. Impeccable karts with sleek designs and sturdy frames rip through on short tracks, usually made from asphalt or concrete - ranging from half a mile to a mile in length. Sprint karting is divided into classes (think boxing middleweights and welterweights) that distinguish engine-types (two-and four-cycle), driver (classified according to age and weight), brand of kart (Yamaha and Honda are popular choices), and specifications. No carbon-fiber made frames and McLarens built with lightweight materials here! Sprint karting is a simplified, scaled-down form of professional go-kart racing with shorter tracks, downgraded technology, less experienced drivers, and downgraded components across the board.
Other forms of karting include enduro racing. Endurance racing, or "enduro" for short is a prolonged version of sprint. Propelled by aerodynamical butterfly steering, enduro karts are an upgrade over sprint karts - participating in races lasting an hour or more. Dirt, oval tracks is the staple of endurance racing and is more prevalent in the Midwest than anywhere else. Because of the long racing period, special emphasis is paid to durable karts and pit stop maintenance than focusing on just speed. In runner's terms, enduro is a marathon - not a sprint. If you sacrifice chassis and tire maintenance for speed throughout the course of a race, reaching the finish line is out of the question.
Behind every successful sprint car are its well-performing components, specifically its frame, engine, and tires. The dynamics of a go-kart is two-fold: to be built to withstand the rigors of racing and to serve as the backbone for speed. Usually made of steel, frames have the option of being flexible or not. Flexible frames mean easier maneuvering along the track, especially when turning as to maintain good "side bite" and control of the kart. Because non-professional go-karts have no sophisticated traction and suspension system to withstand bumps, frames are usually subject to more punishment. Sprint kart tires usually do not have indented grooves, as they are soft in nature and more suited to all-terrain.
900 BHP horsepower engines are the norm for souped-up Honda Formula One karts. Capable of reaching speeds of 200+ mph, they represent the all-out nature of karting technology. For the novices, a simple 2-cycle engine will do! Running on gasoline and electricity instead of petrol (typically mixed with other fuels to suit environmental conditions for Formula One,) sprint karts run on either 2-cycle or 4-cycle engines. 4-cycle engines are the weakest engine around, with horsepower topping 20 HP. Think of the power needed to run a heavy-duty vacuum cleaner - that's how much power a 4-cycle engine exerts. 2-cycle engines are typically associated with the likes of Vespas (European motor scooters) and mopeds. These go up to 90 HP. Added cylinders (individual horsepower generators in go-karts) can boost horsepower, adding pure speed & power to your machine. Perhaps 10-cylinder Formula One kart engines and its incredible capabilities ring bells to you now!
Want pinpoint control over the speed of your go-kart? No problem here! Go-karts have basic transmission systems with gears that control speed to its desired amount. Coming with clutches, shifter karts (a popular type of sprint kart that allows you to move at a certain amount of speeds) make the best use of engine power when zipping along a straight path or maneuvering over the short or wide curve. Depending on the amount of cylinders and engine, shifter enthusiasts can lay opponents in their dust blazing trails up to 90 mph. Shifters usually run on larger road courses known as road racing. It is flush in structure with qualification criteria like class of kart, weight of driver, etc. Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha are popular suppliers of engines. These companies are at the forefront of karting technology, regularly tinkering with what's already available or creating new concepts of their own.
Sprint karting opportunities are available to everyone. If you want to enjoy it as a form of recreation instead of competition, visit your local track and rent a kart! Make sure to sign any insurance waivers and become acquainted with the rules and regulations! If you like to compete, inquire from within. Sprint karting is one of the least expensive sports out there. People from all walks of life and all economic backgrounds can drive a kart, or even purchase their own with a powerful engine. There are many karting schools available all over the nation that will let you ride their karts for a nominal fee. In essence, karting is more than a pastime. It is a bonafide sport capable of preparing you for more advanced karting by helping you shape your judgment, hand-eye coordination abilities, and technological/dynamical know-how of the instruments you're using.
Developed in the 1950´s by pilots with a zest for tinkering with motorcycle engines to propel simple frames, go-karting extended internationally after the construction of the first go-kart by Art Ingels in Pasadena. Before dwelling on it's mass European appeal and discussing the pinnacle of Formula 1 racing, let's backtrack for a second. Riding go-karts (or karting) is the best way to break into professional racing. It is the simplest means of exploding your chassis down the track before getting into the sophisticated arena of professional racing. Single cylinder engines, basic chassis models, and lack of speed producing components provide go-kart racing with the air of simplicity, geared towards beginners and novices.
The concept of sprint karting comes to our mind when we think of the prototypical kart & track in amusement parks, recreational areas, and arcade palaces. Impeccable karts with sleek designs and sturdy frames rip through on short tracks, usually made from asphalt or concrete - ranging from half a mile to a mile in length. Sprint karting is divided into classes (think boxing middleweights and welterweights) that distinguish engine-types (two-and four-cycle), driver (classified according to age and weight), brand of kart (Yamaha and Honda are popular choices), and specifications. No carbon-fiber made frames and McLarens built with lightweight materials here! Sprint karting is a simplified, scaled-down form of professional go-kart racing with shorter tracks, downgraded technology, less experienced drivers, and downgraded components across the board.
Other forms of karting include enduro racing. Endurance racing, or "enduro" for short is a prolonged version of sprint. Propelled by aerodynamical butterfly steering, enduro karts are an upgrade over sprint karts - participating in races lasting an hour or more. Dirt, oval tracks is the staple of endurance racing and is more prevalent in the Midwest than anywhere else. Because of the long racing period, special emphasis is paid to durable karts and pit stop maintenance than focusing on just speed. In runner's terms, enduro is a marathon - not a sprint. If you sacrifice chassis and tire maintenance for speed throughout the course of a race, reaching the finish line is out of the question.
Behind every successful sprint car are its well-performing components, specifically its frame, engine, and tires. The dynamics of a go-kart is two-fold: to be built to withstand the rigors of racing and to serve as the backbone for speed. Usually made of steel, frames have the option of being flexible or not. Flexible frames mean easier maneuvering along the track, especially when turning as to maintain good "side bite" and control of the kart. Because non-professional go-karts have no sophisticated traction and suspension system to withstand bumps, frames are usually subject to more punishment. Sprint kart tires usually do not have indented grooves, as they are soft in nature and more suited to all-terrain.
900 BHP horsepower engines are the norm for souped-up Honda Formula One karts. Capable of reaching speeds of 200+ mph, they represent the all-out nature of karting technology. For the novices, a simple 2-cycle engine will do! Running on gasoline and electricity instead of petrol (typically mixed with other fuels to suit environmental conditions for Formula One,) sprint karts run on either 2-cycle or 4-cycle engines. 4-cycle engines are the weakest engine around, with horsepower topping 20 HP. Think of the power needed to run a heavy-duty vacuum cleaner - that's how much power a 4-cycle engine exerts. 2-cycle engines are typically associated with the likes of Vespas (European motor scooters) and mopeds. These go up to 90 HP. Added cylinders (individual horsepower generators in go-karts) can boost horsepower, adding pure speed & power to your machine. Perhaps 10-cylinder Formula One kart engines and its incredible capabilities ring bells to you now!
Want pinpoint control over the speed of your go-kart? No problem here! Go-karts have basic transmission systems with gears that control speed to its desired amount. Coming with clutches, shifter karts (a popular type of sprint kart that allows you to move at a certain amount of speeds) make the best use of engine power when zipping along a straight path or maneuvering over the short or wide curve. Depending on the amount of cylinders and engine, shifter enthusiasts can lay opponents in their dust blazing trails up to 90 mph. Shifters usually run on larger road courses known as road racing. It is flush in structure with qualification criteria like class of kart, weight of driver, etc. Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha are popular suppliers of engines. These companies are at the forefront of karting technology, regularly tinkering with what's already available or creating new concepts of their own.
Sprint karting opportunities are available to everyone. If you want to enjoy it as a form of recreation instead of competition, visit your local track and rent a kart! Make sure to sign any insurance waivers and become acquainted with the rules and regulations! If you like to compete, inquire from within. Sprint karting is one of the least expensive sports out there. People from all walks of life and all economic backgrounds can drive a kart, or even purchase their own with a powerful engine. There are many karting schools available all over the nation that will let you ride their karts for a nominal fee. In essence, karting is more than a pastime. It is a bonafide sport capable of preparing you for more advanced karting by helping you shape your judgment, hand-eye coordination abilities, and technological/dynamical know-how of the instruments you're using.
Getting The Right Bicycle Seat
It takes only one ride on the wrong bicycle seat to demonstrate irrefutably that a good bicycle seat is paramount to regular bicycle riding.Even the shortest, smoothest ride can be painful and joyless if your bicycle has a bad seat on it.
What differentiates a good seat from a bad seat?It will differ between any two people, and it will differ especially between men and women.Our anatomies in the lower torso are made for strikingly different purposes, and it's pretty safe to venture that none of them include bike riding!Truth be told, the perfect bicycle seat has not yet been marketed.There are, however, some seats that are markedly better than others.
The biggest mistake made by occasional riders, particularly the elderly, is to opt for a bicycle seat that is bigger and better cushioned.Stop right there.Bigger seats are the wrong way to go, for anyone.Bigger seats increase friction and contact.All they will do is to broaden the area of your discomfort.Go for a smaller seat.The aim is to decrease the contact area between your derriere and the bicycle seat, not increase it!
As for cushioning, here you have some leeway.There are some very comfortable, stream-lined bicycle seats out there now, especially those made with the bumps of mountain bike riding in mind, or for the hybrid bicycles so popular with urban riders.Here, you can combine a svelte seat with some very nice and unobtrusive cushioning that will be positioned right where you need it: under your right and left buttocks' contact points.There is absolutely no good reason to have cushioning under your entire derriere.
Today, there are a lot of bicycle seat designs intended to account for the anatomical differences in men and women.The most important is that the flare of a woman's seat is just a little bit wider to allow those contact points and their cushioning to hit where a woman's anatomy requires it, but there are also bicycle seats made with various openings in the middle to decrease painful prolonged contact with male or female genitalia.
Whatever you decide might be a good option for you, try out a bicycle seat before committing to purchase.Shop at a good bike shop.Their employees know a lot and most will allow you to return it if you need to take it home to try it on your own bike. You really can't know if it's right unless you try it.
What differentiates a good seat from a bad seat?It will differ between any two people, and it will differ especially between men and women.Our anatomies in the lower torso are made for strikingly different purposes, and it's pretty safe to venture that none of them include bike riding!Truth be told, the perfect bicycle seat has not yet been marketed.There are, however, some seats that are markedly better than others.
The biggest mistake made by occasional riders, particularly the elderly, is to opt for a bicycle seat that is bigger and better cushioned.Stop right there.Bigger seats are the wrong way to go, for anyone.Bigger seats increase friction and contact.All they will do is to broaden the area of your discomfort.Go for a smaller seat.The aim is to decrease the contact area between your derriere and the bicycle seat, not increase it!
As for cushioning, here you have some leeway.There are some very comfortable, stream-lined bicycle seats out there now, especially those made with the bumps of mountain bike riding in mind, or for the hybrid bicycles so popular with urban riders.Here, you can combine a svelte seat with some very nice and unobtrusive cushioning that will be positioned right where you need it: under your right and left buttocks' contact points.There is absolutely no good reason to have cushioning under your entire derriere.
Today, there are a lot of bicycle seat designs intended to account for the anatomical differences in men and women.The most important is that the flare of a woman's seat is just a little bit wider to allow those contact points and their cushioning to hit where a woman's anatomy requires it, but there are also bicycle seats made with various openings in the middle to decrease painful prolonged contact with male or female genitalia.
Whatever you decide might be a good option for you, try out a bicycle seat before committing to purchase.Shop at a good bike shop.Their employees know a lot and most will allow you to return it if you need to take it home to try it on your own bike. You really can't know if it's right unless you try it.
Getting Started in BMX Racing
BMX racing is a fun sport for young people. For kids, the basic bike should have 20-inch wheels. Riders under age six can use whatever type of bike they have, even if it's not a true BMX freestyle bike. These little folks might still be riding bikes with wheels as small as 12-inches. Some tracks even have races for Big Wheel bikes.
A cruiser or mountain bike with 24-inch or 26-inch wheels might be okay, too, but check ahead of time with your local track for advice. Many tracks will let you race a mountain bike in the "Cruiser" class.
Whatever bike you use should be equipped this way. Remove all reflectors. Take off the kickstand and chainguard to prevent injury in a wreck.
The bike should have pads on the top tube, stem and crossbar. Most BMX freestyle bikes already have these pads. If your bike doesn't have them, adding this safety feature will cost about $5.
The bike should have at least one working brake. A coaster brake is fine if that's all the bike has. The bike should be in safe working order.
Finally, tie a paper plate to the handlebars. This will be your number plate. When you get to the track, they'll give you a number to put on it. That number will identify you to the judges and fans as you are racing.
Safety is important
For head protection, a helmet is essential. Depending on the track rules, this may need to be a full-face helmet or a helmet with a separate mouthguard. Other tracks will accept any type of inexpensive motocross-style helmet.
Wear protective clothing. Regular long pants or jeans will protect the rider's legs. For arm protection, wear a long-sleeved shirt. Since riders will use their feet, they should wear good sturdy shoes they are comfortable riding in.
Although you can race without gloves, wearing them is a good idea. Be sure they fit well and don't interfere with moving your hands. Finally, bring bike tools and an air pump in case repairs are needed.
Ready to race
To race, a potential rider needs to find a track. Local bike shops may have information on where the nearest track is. Otherwise visit the National Bicycle League (NBL) or American Bicycle Association (ABA) websites. These are the sanctioning bodies of BMX racing. They provide advice and insurance to local tracks. As an NBL or ABA member, you will have some medical insurance if you get hurt on the track during a race and do not have other insurance.
A parent or guardian must accompany the rider to give permission for the child to race. A birth certificate must be shown as proof of age. Most tracks charge between $15 and $35 for a racing license that is licenses good for a year. There is also an entry fee for each race, which is usually between $6 and $10.
For your first visit to a particular track, get there about two hours before the first race starts. Find the registration tent or trailer and sign up.
Then take a walk around the track. Try to remember where the jumps are. Next it's time to practice. Put your helmet and other gear on and follow the others to the starting gate. Watch what everyone else does and where they go. A beginner should put his front wheel against the starting gate, keeping one foot on a pedal and the other one on the ground. Start pedaling when the gate drops. Go slow the first few times until you feel comfortable.
After practice, the races will be posted. The people at the registration tent can tell you where your particular race will be posted and how the race actually works. You will be in a group or "moto" with other riders about your age. Line up with them in the staging area. When your group is called, go up and race! This will probably happen three or four times, depending on the system the track uses, and then it will be over. If you win, you might get a trophy. Even if you don't, you'll have fun.
A cruiser or mountain bike with 24-inch or 26-inch wheels might be okay, too, but check ahead of time with your local track for advice. Many tracks will let you race a mountain bike in the "Cruiser" class.
Whatever bike you use should be equipped this way. Remove all reflectors. Take off the kickstand and chainguard to prevent injury in a wreck.
The bike should have pads on the top tube, stem and crossbar. Most BMX freestyle bikes already have these pads. If your bike doesn't have them, adding this safety feature will cost about $5.
The bike should have at least one working brake. A coaster brake is fine if that's all the bike has. The bike should be in safe working order.
Finally, tie a paper plate to the handlebars. This will be your number plate. When you get to the track, they'll give you a number to put on it. That number will identify you to the judges and fans as you are racing.
Safety is important
For head protection, a helmet is essential. Depending on the track rules, this may need to be a full-face helmet or a helmet with a separate mouthguard. Other tracks will accept any type of inexpensive motocross-style helmet.
Wear protective clothing. Regular long pants or jeans will protect the rider's legs. For arm protection, wear a long-sleeved shirt. Since riders will use their feet, they should wear good sturdy shoes they are comfortable riding in.
Although you can race without gloves, wearing them is a good idea. Be sure they fit well and don't interfere with moving your hands. Finally, bring bike tools and an air pump in case repairs are needed.
Ready to race
To race, a potential rider needs to find a track. Local bike shops may have information on where the nearest track is. Otherwise visit the National Bicycle League (NBL) or American Bicycle Association (ABA) websites. These are the sanctioning bodies of BMX racing. They provide advice and insurance to local tracks. As an NBL or ABA member, you will have some medical insurance if you get hurt on the track during a race and do not have other insurance.
A parent or guardian must accompany the rider to give permission for the child to race. A birth certificate must be shown as proof of age. Most tracks charge between $15 and $35 for a racing license that is licenses good for a year. There is also an entry fee for each race, which is usually between $6 and $10.
For your first visit to a particular track, get there about two hours before the first race starts. Find the registration tent or trailer and sign up.
Then take a walk around the track. Try to remember where the jumps are. Next it's time to practice. Put your helmet and other gear on and follow the others to the starting gate. Watch what everyone else does and where they go. A beginner should put his front wheel against the starting gate, keeping one foot on a pedal and the other one on the ground. Start pedaling when the gate drops. Go slow the first few times until you feel comfortable.
After practice, the races will be posted. The people at the registration tent can tell you where your particular race will be posted and how the race actually works. You will be in a group or "moto" with other riders about your age. Line up with them in the staging area. When your group is called, go up and race! This will probably happen three or four times, depending on the system the track uses, and then it will be over. If you win, you might get a trophy. Even if you don't, you'll have fun.
A Guided Tour of an Online Casino Directory
Using the comprehensive online casino directory CasinoBrain as our guide, we will lay out in this article the features you should expect from a high quality online casino directory.
Top Lists
In all their catchy, short attention span suiting, bottom-line giving glory. A good online casino directory will cut straight to the bone and save you the trouble of sifting through the reviews their writer-players so tirelessly toiled over. A great sampling of top lists might include the following: Top Casinos, Top Casino Payouts, Top Bonuses, Top No Deposit Bonuses.
Casino Reviews
The meat of the online casino directory (or its heart if you prefer). Online casino savvy writers visit each of the sites reviewed, peruse its offerings, play its games, and compare and contrast one against the other.
CasinoBrain’s reviews give you a comprehensive idea of what criteria a good online casino directory should examine in evaluating an online casino: An overall summary, screenshot(s) of the actual casino itself, overall score/grade, bonuses and promotions, payout percentages (by game), software and graphics, games (including game-specific info on limits and stakes), payouts, cashouts, and Security (including payment methods accepted for each, procedures for each, and encryption technology employed), and customer Support (including methods of contact -- email, telephone, live chat).
CasinoBrain has even created a system of eye-catching and colorful icons that represent some of the more common attributes of online casinos for quick and easy reference when perusing the online casino directory reviews. Attributes like: Progressive Jackpots, MultiPlayer Games, Sportsbook, No Download, Signup Bonus, and others!
Casino Game Rules
A good online casino directory should teach you how to play the games offered at the online casinos they list. At the very least, an online casino directory should teach the rules of the most popular games, such as Baccarat, Blackjack, Craps, Keno, Roulette, Slots, and Video Poker.
Betting Systems
Some players swear by them. A good online casino directory devoted to giving players all the facts possible should explain in depth the most widely-used betting systems online or off. These include: the 1-2-3-6 System, the D'Alenbert System, the Labouchere System, the Martingale System, the Parlay System, and the Paroli System.
Gaming Software
A quality online casino directory will list the various major software makers that are used to run the online casinos, even allowing you to sort online casino by the software they run. Examples include Microgaming, Playtech, Real Time Media and WagerLogic.
Payment Methods
Of interest to many players also is information about the various Payment Methods you could choose to use to fund (and withdraw from) your online casino accounts.
All in all, a good online casino directory will act as your most trusted, comprehensive resource and should help make your online gaming experience even more fun!
******
Top Lists
In all their catchy, short attention span suiting, bottom-line giving glory. A good online casino directory will cut straight to the bone and save you the trouble of sifting through the reviews their writer-players so tirelessly toiled over. A great sampling of top lists might include the following: Top Casinos, Top Casino Payouts, Top Bonuses, Top No Deposit Bonuses.
Casino Reviews
The meat of the online casino directory (or its heart if you prefer). Online casino savvy writers visit each of the sites reviewed, peruse its offerings, play its games, and compare and contrast one against the other.
CasinoBrain’s reviews give you a comprehensive idea of what criteria a good online casino directory should examine in evaluating an online casino: An overall summary, screenshot(s) of the actual casino itself, overall score/grade, bonuses and promotions, payout percentages (by game), software and graphics, games (including game-specific info on limits and stakes), payouts, cashouts, and Security (including payment methods accepted for each, procedures for each, and encryption technology employed), and customer Support (including methods of contact -- email, telephone, live chat).
CasinoBrain has even created a system of eye-catching and colorful icons that represent some of the more common attributes of online casinos for quick and easy reference when perusing the online casino directory reviews. Attributes like: Progressive Jackpots, MultiPlayer Games, Sportsbook, No Download, Signup Bonus, and others!
Casino Game Rules
A good online casino directory should teach you how to play the games offered at the online casinos they list. At the very least, an online casino directory should teach the rules of the most popular games, such as Baccarat, Blackjack, Craps, Keno, Roulette, Slots, and Video Poker.
Betting Systems
Some players swear by them. A good online casino directory devoted to giving players all the facts possible should explain in depth the most widely-used betting systems online or off. These include: the 1-2-3-6 System, the D'Alenbert System, the Labouchere System, the Martingale System, the Parlay System, and the Paroli System.
Gaming Software
A quality online casino directory will list the various major software makers that are used to run the online casinos, even allowing you to sort online casino by the software they run. Examples include Microgaming, Playtech, Real Time Media and WagerLogic.
Payment Methods
Of interest to many players also is information about the various Payment Methods you could choose to use to fund (and withdraw from) your online casino accounts.
All in all, a good online casino directory will act as your most trusted, comprehensive resource and should help make your online gaming experience even more fun!
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Hunting Knives: The Benefits of a Liner Lock Folding Knife
When knives first began to appear as pocket knives, they were developed so that they could virtually fold in half and be able to ride in a secure, hidden location. When the knives were opened, it was usually done with a thumb or another finger, which meant that a person would have to use two hands in order to open up his knife. This is something that worked for many people, but could also be dangerous in the long run.
This is part of why liner lock knives were developed. With the liner lock knife, it is possible to open and close the blade with only one hand in a safe manner. The knife was designed by Michael Walker who took what was at one time called the electrician’s knife, and made some adjustments to it. The electrician’s knife was a knife that had a button which you could press to open and close it. However, it did not lock. Knife maker Walker changed the older style so that it would lock, which meant a safer sturdier blade.
The liner lock knife that can be found in hunting and fishing equipment stores today are commonly referred to as folding knives. When the knife is unfolded, it is held open by a leaf spring or lockbar system. The lockbar presses against the bottom of the blade and does not allow it to close until the lockbar is pressed. Then, it closes by itself. It will stay closed until the lockbar is pressed one more time.
The liner lock knife is useful because it allows you to safely keep your knife closed when you do not want to be using it. It locks the blade closed so that it will not come open by accident. This mechanism creates a way to keep a knife in the house or in a tackle box without worrying about the safety of other people that may be digging in drawers or boxes to retrieve it. The liner lock knife also works to lock the knife open, so that you will not have to worry about the knife falling shut accidentally on unsuspecting fingers or constantly collapsing while you are trying to complete a task. The lockbar on the liner lock knife works in both ways.
The liner lock knife also allows you to open and close the blade with one hand. This makes the entire knife much easier and convenient to use. These blades are also made of strong materials, typically steel or titanium, to better withstand rigorous use and the constant movement of the internal mechanism. These materials can also withstand rust and tend to maintain their sharpness better than other metals. With this type of construction, it is reassuring to users that the knife will last.
Whether for outdoor use or for your home, having a solid folding knife at your disposal is important. If you do not have one, consider a liner lock knife for its safety, ease-of-use and durability.
This is part of why liner lock knives were developed. With the liner lock knife, it is possible to open and close the blade with only one hand in a safe manner. The knife was designed by Michael Walker who took what was at one time called the electrician’s knife, and made some adjustments to it. The electrician’s knife was a knife that had a button which you could press to open and close it. However, it did not lock. Knife maker Walker changed the older style so that it would lock, which meant a safer sturdier blade.
The liner lock knife that can be found in hunting and fishing equipment stores today are commonly referred to as folding knives. When the knife is unfolded, it is held open by a leaf spring or lockbar system. The lockbar presses against the bottom of the blade and does not allow it to close until the lockbar is pressed. Then, it closes by itself. It will stay closed until the lockbar is pressed one more time.
The liner lock knife is useful because it allows you to safely keep your knife closed when you do not want to be using it. It locks the blade closed so that it will not come open by accident. This mechanism creates a way to keep a knife in the house or in a tackle box without worrying about the safety of other people that may be digging in drawers or boxes to retrieve it. The liner lock knife also works to lock the knife open, so that you will not have to worry about the knife falling shut accidentally on unsuspecting fingers or constantly collapsing while you are trying to complete a task. The lockbar on the liner lock knife works in both ways.
The liner lock knife also allows you to open and close the blade with one hand. This makes the entire knife much easier and convenient to use. These blades are also made of strong materials, typically steel or titanium, to better withstand rigorous use and the constant movement of the internal mechanism. These materials can also withstand rust and tend to maintain their sharpness better than other metals. With this type of construction, it is reassuring to users that the knife will last.
Whether for outdoor use or for your home, having a solid folding knife at your disposal is important. If you do not have one, consider a liner lock knife for its safety, ease-of-use and durability.
Achieving The Perfect Golf Swing Drill
The perfect golf swing drill is a joy to behold. And yet it is not too hard to achieve.
The perfect golf swing drill starts with a proper back swing with the golf club swung right back to the limit of your body. At this segment of the perfect golf swing drill your mind should be preparing for the rotation of your body and the arm extension.
Next, the movements of the perfect golf swing drill moves to the down swing, which starts with the lower part of the body, including the legs and hips. A transfer of weight will take place from back to front with the knees, thighs and hips all moving forward.
The perfect golf swing drill ends with the body weight on the outside of the front heel and the inside of the rear foot.
The perfect golf swing drill is easy when your body is prepared and conditioned to achieve it. However the perfect golf swing drill can be very difficult for a golfer not involved in any golf specific exercise designed to condition and prepare their muscles and body in general for the strain and pressure that golf usually brings.
Most professionals take their golf-specific exercises very seriously, but some amateurs are reluctant to let go of the so-called good old days when exercise had no role in the leisure sport of golf. Still they are finding the going increasingly difficult as more and more golfers embrace golf exercise programs.
There is no doubt that the perfect golf swing drill happens only with those whose muscles and bodies have been prepared.
The perfect golf swing drill starts with a proper back swing with the golf club swung right back to the limit of your body. At this segment of the perfect golf swing drill your mind should be preparing for the rotation of your body and the arm extension.
Next, the movements of the perfect golf swing drill moves to the down swing, which starts with the lower part of the body, including the legs and hips. A transfer of weight will take place from back to front with the knees, thighs and hips all moving forward.
The perfect golf swing drill ends with the body weight on the outside of the front heel and the inside of the rear foot.
The perfect golf swing drill is easy when your body is prepared and conditioned to achieve it. However the perfect golf swing drill can be very difficult for a golfer not involved in any golf specific exercise designed to condition and prepare their muscles and body in general for the strain and pressure that golf usually brings.
Most professionals take their golf-specific exercises very seriously, but some amateurs are reluctant to let go of the so-called good old days when exercise had no role in the leisure sport of golf. Still they are finding the going increasingly difficult as more and more golfers embrace golf exercise programs.
There is no doubt that the perfect golf swing drill happens only with those whose muscles and bodies have been prepared.
Humminbird Matrix 77 - Wide Range Of Features For Finding Fish
Is there a structure lurking below the water, or is it a shoal of fish? If the Humminbird Matrix 77 is used, you’ll know what’s below the surface of the lake or river within a few minutes. Looking for your fish is much easier and more profitable when you use a fishfinder to guide you. You will be pleased to find the high quality and high levels of clarity that you will get from the Humminbird Matrix 77. There is no doubt that this fish finder will be helping you to bring the fish home.
Where are the fish? The Matrix 77 is better equipped to find them. Features of the Matrix 77 include a five inch, TFT display with enhanced, highly visible viewing. All this spells out just how easy it is to see what’s going on under the water. It will tell you what’s at the bottom. With its wide coverage DualBeam PLUS it will also help you to find out what structures are below the water as well. If there is a huge fish hiding down there, you’ll know about it.
By giving you a clear picture of what’s below, you will be better capable of locating your fish. You also have the convenient tilt and mount of the display. That means that you can keep your hands on the fishing rod, guiding the boat or feeding line instead of fiddling with the fishfinder.
With Real Time Sonar, the Matrix 77 allows you to know what’s happening continually below the water. You can see what’s happening in real time allowing you to follow the movements of the fish with your own actions. All of these features better enable to you bring home fish. The sonar directs you to the right locations by telling you what is done below. GPS readiness can help you to know where you are located, great to finding those hotspots!
The Matrix 77 offers a wide range of features like these to help you bring home fish every time you get out.
Where are the fish? The Matrix 77 is better equipped to find them. Features of the Matrix 77 include a five inch, TFT display with enhanced, highly visible viewing. All this spells out just how easy it is to see what’s going on under the water. It will tell you what’s at the bottom. With its wide coverage DualBeam PLUS it will also help you to find out what structures are below the water as well. If there is a huge fish hiding down there, you’ll know about it.
By giving you a clear picture of what’s below, you will be better capable of locating your fish. You also have the convenient tilt and mount of the display. That means that you can keep your hands on the fishing rod, guiding the boat or feeding line instead of fiddling with the fishfinder.
With Real Time Sonar, the Matrix 77 allows you to know what’s happening continually below the water. You can see what’s happening in real time allowing you to follow the movements of the fish with your own actions. All of these features better enable to you bring home fish. The sonar directs you to the right locations by telling you what is done below. GPS readiness can help you to know where you are located, great to finding those hotspots!
The Matrix 77 offers a wide range of features like these to help you bring home fish every time you get out.
Methods Of Qigong In Kung Fu Training
Qigong is a general name for the systems of hardening and improvement of body and mind, treatment and health enhancement created in China. They primarily based on the ability to control your own consciousness, mentality and through them all the physiological processes of the organism. Practicing Qigong you can achieve stunning results some of which even the powerful modern science cannot conceive and explain.
There are three main categories of Qigong: Health-improving, Fighting and Mystical.
1. It was Chinese physicians who developed and evolved the Health-improving Qigong during many centuries. They created special exercises aimed to preserve and promote health as well as to cure various diseases.
2. Fighting (or Hard) Qigong was developed by those practitioners of Qigong who at the same time were masters of martial arts. These exercises serve to enhance the energy concentration in muscles and other parts of the body allowing to hugely increase the bodily strength and its resistance against the attempts to cause it a physical injury.
3. Mystical Qigong is a child of Buddhist monks and Taosian anchorites. The goal of Mystical Qigong consists in achieving the so called Enlightenment – a special psychophysical state of the human being. Taosian anchorites also developed methods of anti-aging based on Mystical Qigong. Mystical Qigong is the most difficult to master.
Qigong is not only the art of Qi energy control; it trains the mind and helps to work out the ability to control your volitional impulse. Qigong techniques include a huge variety of exercises but they all consist of the three main parts: control of position, control of breath, and control of mind.
Controlling his position, a man can acquire some optimal posture of body which would allow Qi to flow in the organism without delays or blockages not causing any disturbing feelings and removing diseases. The exercises are mostly performed in common stands, for example, in the Rider’s stance.
You need to control your breath to let the external Qi (from the air) not only to pass mechanically into the internal state but to spread along energy channels, fully feeding all the organs.
Consciousness is crucial in breath control; it distributes Qi along the body. At the highest stage, the breath is controlled at the level of subconsciousness and do not require too much of your attention.
Step by step learning to control his energy resources, a practitioner will pass from using the physical strength (Li) to the internal burst of effort (Tsin). This internal effort, as Chinese masters believe, is produced not by muscles but in tendons and marrow.
This is the reason why the most of Kung Fu exercises aimed not to increase the mass of muscles but to strengthen tendons and bones. While muscles tend to loose their strength (Li) as the man grows older, masters preserve their internal effort (Tsin) until great age. That’s why Chinese masters of Kung Fu say: “If you do not practice Fighting Qigong but train only your physical strength you’ll be left with nothing when you grow old enough.”
Qigong exercises advance “internal Qi” our organism contains. “Internal Qi” is also called “true Qi”. The state of “true Qi” depends on many factors: regular Fighting Qigong exercises, nutrition, mental state, environment, etc. Every human being has internal Qi but only few can use it properly, develop it. The Qi of the vast majority of people is destabilized. The goal of Fighting Qigong is to fill the organism with “true Qi”, calm it, make Qi flow along channels freely without obstructions.
So what is Qi after all? According to Chinese notions, it is an energetic substance which represents the foundation of all, i. e. the energetic foundation of the Universe. Our body can be compared to an electric appliance: if it is supplied with electric power it works but if the power supply is cut down the device operation stops. Likewise with the man: if Qi supply of his body is insufficient or it gets stagnant in it, the man gets sick or even dies.
To have a healthy robust body, one needs to learn how to keep the Qi circulation smooth and to be able to accumulate sufficient amount of Qi. To do so, it is necessary to understand the system of circulation and storage of Qi in your organism.
The human body has twelve so called primary channels (meridians) along which Qi is spread across the entire organism. There also exist eight “miraculous” vessels serving as a kind of reservoirs storing and regulating Qi. One end of each channel is attached to one of twelve internal organs while the other end is connected to one of fingers or toes.
These twelve channels supply with Qi energy twelve internal organs. Besides, these channels also take the excessive energy away from internal organs allowing us to through it out of the body. When due to blockage or disease the circulation of Qi along the channels is interrupted, one or several organs cannot get enough Qi which leads to their functional disturbance.
To be healthy, you need to learn how to keep the circulation of Qi in the twelve channels smooth and constantly replenish the “miraculous vessels” with energy.
If you understand the theory of Qi circulation in the human body you will be able to understand how Qi relates to martial arts as well. Remember, your body is not simply a machine it is an organism able to improve itself. The stronger Qi is, the stronger the human body gets.
Fighting Qigong practice sessions serve to enhance the capabilities of your body. We know that using our mind we can control various parts of our own body. The process of control is simple. Our mind generates a thought, and the thought leads Qi to the corresponding parts of the body which perform the requested action. The key thing about Fighting Qigong is in learning to lead your Qi as efficient as it can be. In this case you can increase you strength very much.
Chinese martial arts masters learn to focus their minds through meditation or other kinds of training practice to make Qi obey them easily. This can substantially enhance the strength of a fighter and increase the efficiency of his technique.
There are three main categories of Qigong: Health-improving, Fighting and Mystical.
1. It was Chinese physicians who developed and evolved the Health-improving Qigong during many centuries. They created special exercises aimed to preserve and promote health as well as to cure various diseases.
2. Fighting (or Hard) Qigong was developed by those practitioners of Qigong who at the same time were masters of martial arts. These exercises serve to enhance the energy concentration in muscles and other parts of the body allowing to hugely increase the bodily strength and its resistance against the attempts to cause it a physical injury.
3. Mystical Qigong is a child of Buddhist monks and Taosian anchorites. The goal of Mystical Qigong consists in achieving the so called Enlightenment – a special psychophysical state of the human being. Taosian anchorites also developed methods of anti-aging based on Mystical Qigong. Mystical Qigong is the most difficult to master.
Qigong is not only the art of Qi energy control; it trains the mind and helps to work out the ability to control your volitional impulse. Qigong techniques include a huge variety of exercises but they all consist of the three main parts: control of position, control of breath, and control of mind.
Controlling his position, a man can acquire some optimal posture of body which would allow Qi to flow in the organism without delays or blockages not causing any disturbing feelings and removing diseases. The exercises are mostly performed in common stands, for example, in the Rider’s stance.
You need to control your breath to let the external Qi (from the air) not only to pass mechanically into the internal state but to spread along energy channels, fully feeding all the organs.
Consciousness is crucial in breath control; it distributes Qi along the body. At the highest stage, the breath is controlled at the level of subconsciousness and do not require too much of your attention.
Step by step learning to control his energy resources, a practitioner will pass from using the physical strength (Li) to the internal burst of effort (Tsin). This internal effort, as Chinese masters believe, is produced not by muscles but in tendons and marrow.
This is the reason why the most of Kung Fu exercises aimed not to increase the mass of muscles but to strengthen tendons and bones. While muscles tend to loose their strength (Li) as the man grows older, masters preserve their internal effort (Tsin) until great age. That’s why Chinese masters of Kung Fu say: “If you do not practice Fighting Qigong but train only your physical strength you’ll be left with nothing when you grow old enough.”
Qigong exercises advance “internal Qi” our organism contains. “Internal Qi” is also called “true Qi”. The state of “true Qi” depends on many factors: regular Fighting Qigong exercises, nutrition, mental state, environment, etc. Every human being has internal Qi but only few can use it properly, develop it. The Qi of the vast majority of people is destabilized. The goal of Fighting Qigong is to fill the organism with “true Qi”, calm it, make Qi flow along channels freely without obstructions.
So what is Qi after all? According to Chinese notions, it is an energetic substance which represents the foundation of all, i. e. the energetic foundation of the Universe. Our body can be compared to an electric appliance: if it is supplied with electric power it works but if the power supply is cut down the device operation stops. Likewise with the man: if Qi supply of his body is insufficient or it gets stagnant in it, the man gets sick or even dies.
To have a healthy robust body, one needs to learn how to keep the Qi circulation smooth and to be able to accumulate sufficient amount of Qi. To do so, it is necessary to understand the system of circulation and storage of Qi in your organism.
The human body has twelve so called primary channels (meridians) along which Qi is spread across the entire organism. There also exist eight “miraculous” vessels serving as a kind of reservoirs storing and regulating Qi. One end of each channel is attached to one of twelve internal organs while the other end is connected to one of fingers or toes.
These twelve channels supply with Qi energy twelve internal organs. Besides, these channels also take the excessive energy away from internal organs allowing us to through it out of the body. When due to blockage or disease the circulation of Qi along the channels is interrupted, one or several organs cannot get enough Qi which leads to their functional disturbance.
To be healthy, you need to learn how to keep the circulation of Qi in the twelve channels smooth and constantly replenish the “miraculous vessels” with energy.
If you understand the theory of Qi circulation in the human body you will be able to understand how Qi relates to martial arts as well. Remember, your body is not simply a machine it is an organism able to improve itself. The stronger Qi is, the stronger the human body gets.
Fighting Qigong practice sessions serve to enhance the capabilities of your body. We know that using our mind we can control various parts of our own body. The process of control is simple. Our mind generates a thought, and the thought leads Qi to the corresponding parts of the body which perform the requested action. The key thing about Fighting Qigong is in learning to lead your Qi as efficient as it can be. In this case you can increase you strength very much.
Chinese martial arts masters learn to focus their minds through meditation or other kinds of training practice to make Qi obey them easily. This can substantially enhance the strength of a fighter and increase the efficiency of his technique.
Bicycle Rims And Wheels, Your Bike Cant Go Anywhere Without Them
The first bicycle wheels were from a horse drawn cart, made of wood with a metal band round the bicycle rim, very hard and very uncomfortable to ride. Then a man called Dunlop (Scottish) invented the pneumatic tire, this along with Macadam (another Scot) inventing the tar road surface made cycling a lot more comfortable.
The bicycle rim, like the bicycle frame hasn’t changed much in design, its still round and always will be. From the first wooden rims the next were made of steel, then alloy and now if you can afford it, carbon. Of all bicycle parts the bicycle rim can make a big difference to how your bike handles. First the weight of your rim affects your sprinting and climbing as the weight will low you down, for a long, flat effort the weight isn’t so important as when you get the wheels rolling the weight can help to keep them going. The shape of the rim can be important also, a flat rim is best for climbing as aerodynamics are not so important on a hill, a deep section, aero, rim will help you cut through the air, but in a cross wind could cause you handling problems.
Bicycle Rims Materials
The different materials used for rims are very important also, steel is heavy and if damaged can be difficult to pull back into shape, but because its so strong it is quite difficult to bend in the first place and steel is cheaper than all the other materials. Alloy is probably the most popular rim, it can be made in any shape and profile, flat or aero, but not too deep as it would then weigh too much, most deep section rims are of a alloy braking section nearest the tire which is then mounted to a carbon deep section for lightness and aerodynamics and a very beautiful looking bicycle rim. As with most things if money is no problem you can go for the best, this would be an all carbon rim, strong and very light, but there are a few problems with these rims, first they don’t brake so well in wet conditions and you must use special brake blocks for carbon and they can be expensive, also the rim has to be perfectly round and not have any bulges in the rim wall as this will make braking quite erratic, carbon is a difficult material to work with and must be well looked after.
Types Of Rim To Consider
There are also two types of rim to consider and this depends on which kind of tire you want to use, first there are tubular tires these are glued on to the bicycle rim, cost more and are difficult to repair after a puncture, but for racing they feel and ride wonderfully. Clincher tires have improved a lot recently and are nearly as good as tubulars for performance and are easily repairable and more reasonably priced. Most manufacturers make all styles in both systems.
So which should I buy? Not an easy answer, as there is so much to choose from, years ago you went to your local bike shop, picked out which hubs, spokes and rims you wanted and he would build your wheels, but now most rim makers also manufacture there own wheel sets, Mavic, Shimano and Campagnolo are probably the best known, check out there web-sites for all there new goodies, there are other brands and if you go to your local cycle shop or look in the bike magazines you’ll find them. There is a lot to choose form, but they are all round.
The bicycle rim, like the bicycle frame hasn’t changed much in design, its still round and always will be. From the first wooden rims the next were made of steel, then alloy and now if you can afford it, carbon. Of all bicycle parts the bicycle rim can make a big difference to how your bike handles. First the weight of your rim affects your sprinting and climbing as the weight will low you down, for a long, flat effort the weight isn’t so important as when you get the wheels rolling the weight can help to keep them going. The shape of the rim can be important also, a flat rim is best for climbing as aerodynamics are not so important on a hill, a deep section, aero, rim will help you cut through the air, but in a cross wind could cause you handling problems.
Bicycle Rims Materials
The different materials used for rims are very important also, steel is heavy and if damaged can be difficult to pull back into shape, but because its so strong it is quite difficult to bend in the first place and steel is cheaper than all the other materials. Alloy is probably the most popular rim, it can be made in any shape and profile, flat or aero, but not too deep as it would then weigh too much, most deep section rims are of a alloy braking section nearest the tire which is then mounted to a carbon deep section for lightness and aerodynamics and a very beautiful looking bicycle rim. As with most things if money is no problem you can go for the best, this would be an all carbon rim, strong and very light, but there are a few problems with these rims, first they don’t brake so well in wet conditions and you must use special brake blocks for carbon and they can be expensive, also the rim has to be perfectly round and not have any bulges in the rim wall as this will make braking quite erratic, carbon is a difficult material to work with and must be well looked after.
Types Of Rim To Consider
There are also two types of rim to consider and this depends on which kind of tire you want to use, first there are tubular tires these are glued on to the bicycle rim, cost more and are difficult to repair after a puncture, but for racing they feel and ride wonderfully. Clincher tires have improved a lot recently and are nearly as good as tubulars for performance and are easily repairable and more reasonably priced. Most manufacturers make all styles in both systems.
So which should I buy? Not an easy answer, as there is so much to choose from, years ago you went to your local bike shop, picked out which hubs, spokes and rims you wanted and he would build your wheels, but now most rim makers also manufacture there own wheel sets, Mavic, Shimano and Campagnolo are probably the best known, check out there web-sites for all there new goodies, there are other brands and if you go to your local cycle shop or look in the bike magazines you’ll find them. There is a lot to choose form, but they are all round.
Kayaking - a sport with lots of history
Kayaking is like canoeing, only better. They were originally invented by the Inuit in Alaska and used for hunting (the word means “hunter’s boat”). The defining characteristic of a kayak is the way the boater sits centrally in a long, thin boat and gets along using a paddle. Today they are used for sport. Kayaks are made differently to handle different boating environments, such as calm seas and whitewater. There are also special racing kayaks, designed for speed.
Sea kayaks are long, stable boats with steering mechanisms that can keep a straight path through the water. They are larger and more dependable than other kayaks, but this comes at the cost of manoeuvrability. They are also often big enough to hold more than one kayaker, unlike whitewater kayaks.
Whitewater kayaks are smaller, sportier boats. They are very easy to steer precisely and quickly, but they are not very fast. What speed they do have comes from the way they are designed to harness the energy of fast-flowing rivers. If you go on a kayaking trip, the chances are that this is the kind of kayak you will be riding in.
Racing kayaks, on the other hand, are neither slow nor stable. They are expensive, lightweight boats, built for speed and nothing else, and barely even wide enough to hold a person. It is these kind of kayaks that you will see in the Olympics and other kayaking competitons, as what they lack can be made up for by highly-skilled boaters.
When considering kayaks, a general rule is that the longer the kayak is, the faster yet less manoeuvrable it will be, and vice versa. However, this is not the only factor, as the overall shape of the kayak will also have some effect.
There are also some unusual kinds of kayaks. The inflatable kayak, for example, is often used by casual hobbyists, as it can be transported so easily. They used to be only suitable for calm waters, but design advances have made them suitable for some reasonably fast-flowing environments such as the sea.
Sea kayaks are long, stable boats with steering mechanisms that can keep a straight path through the water. They are larger and more dependable than other kayaks, but this comes at the cost of manoeuvrability. They are also often big enough to hold more than one kayaker, unlike whitewater kayaks.
Whitewater kayaks are smaller, sportier boats. They are very easy to steer precisely and quickly, but they are not very fast. What speed they do have comes from the way they are designed to harness the energy of fast-flowing rivers. If you go on a kayaking trip, the chances are that this is the kind of kayak you will be riding in.
Racing kayaks, on the other hand, are neither slow nor stable. They are expensive, lightweight boats, built for speed and nothing else, and barely even wide enough to hold a person. It is these kind of kayaks that you will see in the Olympics and other kayaking competitons, as what they lack can be made up for by highly-skilled boaters.
When considering kayaks, a general rule is that the longer the kayak is, the faster yet less manoeuvrable it will be, and vice versa. However, this is not the only factor, as the overall shape of the kayak will also have some effect.
There are also some unusual kinds of kayaks. The inflatable kayak, for example, is often used by casual hobbyists, as it can be transported so easily. They used to be only suitable for calm waters, but design advances have made them suitable for some reasonably fast-flowing environments such as the sea.
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